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Excellent suggestion. Why didn't I think of that? When I briefly short the terminals, the starter does indeed spin. So the starter is ok. I'll investegate some more once I get a good VOM.

Well, got a new VOM and of course the Chinese POS was no good out of the box so I am waiting again on replacement. Even the Fluke ones that are hundreds of $ are Chinese. In the meanwhile I did check all the battery connections and I did find one loose terminal but tightening it up did not fix...

Another update on the gear reduction starter. Found that the two piece torque converter cover, the part that covers the starter - the holes won't line up with this starter. So I'll have to look at how to solve that. The starter seems to be working well. Yesterday, I replaced the leaking...

Another update on this gear reduction starter. I decided to give it a try, and keep the rebuilt original as a spare. Still a PITA to install even though it is less than half the weight of the original. Good news is all the original wiring reached after a bit of fiddling. The only modification...

Bit of an update. I hoped I could pull the tranny back far enough to R&R the flexplate and avoid dropping the tranny completely but sadly, I could not move it far enough back because the tank and muffler prevented that. So I had to drop the tranny. :cry: I received the gear reduction starter...

Thank you. Reading a bit more, I see a gear reduction starter will have problems without the proper front support bracket. I see GM part number 23502557 might be the correct part for a gear reduction starter on a big block GM engine, 454 gas or 6.2 or 6.5 diesel. I have to look at the block...

Indeed I am not see much talk about using a gear reduction on a HMMWV. Questions I see that were asked include: Do you use the same shim? Will the existing wiring reach? Do you need a different front support? I see they offer it on Amazon and it is returnable. I'm thinking of trying it and...

The HotRod guy like the gear reduction starters because they are: lighter, less weight = go faster smaller, easier to fit headers I stumbled on to this. Wondering if the wires will reach? Do I use the same shim? Wondering what you guys think...

As usual - less that $2 for a set of bolts, and only $18 shipping!

Thank you for that. I now will take my starter to a rebuild shop in town and have them test it and install a new gear. I am sure if I tried, I would get it apart, but not back together! One other question. While I am in there, I may as well replace the flexplate bolts. I would use ARP...

Looking at part's, I see the drive gear on the starter might be available as a seperate part? I would like to replace it with the new flywheel as a safety measure so they don't tear each other apart. Looks like part number 12339360? Anyone have the proecedure to replace the gear? It is...

No, I did not remove the starter or flywheel when I swapped the tranny. Starter bolts are solid. The starter looks like it was never disturbed, at least in the last decade! It could be this started before I received the truck. I do recall hearing grinding briefly a couple times during the last...

Folks, My luck just seems to be going from bad to worse. I am working two different AC problems in different threads and now another horrible issue developed. When starting the engine I heard a horrble grinding sound while cranking. I get under the truck and pull the Torque Converter cover...

Well, I am fighting two issues at once. Yes, it can blow cold air but the Freon is low. It has a leak in the EVAP which I am going to swap out as soon as the part arrives. Confirmed with a Freon leak detector. I would have also thought they should be on constantly with the AC on, but that is...

Thanks - so I will have to trace the wiring on the condenser fans back and figure out how they hooked it up. Just coincidental they stopped working with that switch change.

Yet another question for the collective. I did scan the electrical diagram I have for the M998 but I am not seeing this Fan Sensitivity switch. After converting my TH400 to a 4L80, I moved the Fan Sensitivity Switch that was located on the throttle body, to the back of the engine. I used the...

Thanks for all the guidance. After measuring the space available under the radio shelf, trying to not have to reposition the AC hoses, and looking for a 24V universal underdash unit which the old one seemed to be, I ordered one that should fit. But I have to find some new vent "registers" or...

Yeah, I looked at just replacing it with a Red Dot, but the Red Dots are too wide to fit under the radio shelf. I am trying to avoid having to redo the whole system, or just keep filling it up with Freon every few months. I found this one, made by Red Dot, that is supposed to be military for...

Well, two steps forward, one step back. I took the unit completely apart and I did find the leak. With the truck running, the detector goes crazy at the rear of the coils, near the fans, near the bottom. Nothing detected near those hose connectors. The bad news is that the coil is a brick, and...

Mine does look like one of the Red Dot headliner units I see in their catalog. Mine has a seperate controller. Once I remove the radio shelf hopefully I will see a model number and I can just order a new evap once I locate the leak precisely Thanks for pointing me towards Red Dot.