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Spaceship dash?

Just remember that there are different threads for the left and right sides of the truck.

Tough call. Some useful info there. I'd likely stick to engine/trans/truck stuff. Weather stations make a nice separate addon, IMO. I'd do that elsewhere myself.

If you have an A1 or A1R truck it's pretty easy to pull tons of telemetry from the ECU and display it on monitor(s). Most diagnostic devices with Bluetooth can push display data to a laptop, tablet, or Arduino-driven display. Hell, you could throw it up on a smart TV if you wanted. There's no...

Doesn't sound right. Both doors or only affecting one? Might check up at the mechanism behind the striker latch. The last time I was messing with rods I noticed that my tinkering had tightened things up a bit. The key is stiffer to turn as is the lock knob. Sort of the opposite of what...

It's just something I bookmarked ages ago. While novel, it's really for a car. I don't think you can mod the software and add things like air psi, dual alts, etc, etc. Displaying those things that the A1/A1R trucks can pass from the EUC to a screen can be done with the right comms and UI...

Clicky link I posted...

I'm still on the fence, but I'd love to make this happen. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085D94DJQ/

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ctis-and-arduino.181972/

I'm not sure that the lower boxes behind the seats still work. The length of the seat does seem longer. I guess it would depend on whether you slide the seat back all the way what angle you reline the seat. The overhead boxes on the A1R trucks (with the headrest) won't work with these...

For the most part, it's the same as the M1078. And that would address any shock flex, but not the captured springs. But I'd still have to compress/capture the hab springs or off-weight the hab to relieve those flex points. Shouldn't require anything fancy (don't technically have to be...

I'll echo the Chrysler Pacifica seats. I got mine NOS out of a local conversion-to-handicapped van. $50 for the pair on FB market and a 5 minute drive. Bonus if you find them heated. Pro Tip: The trick to seats in these trucks is to keep the seat bases as close to or below the level of the...

Yeah, that tracks my thinking. But I don't think it's only flexing at the captured spring point. I suspect that it's flexing at both the capture point and the rear shocks. I need to do a simple camera test to see (but some times the toys get spooked when they see a camera come out, though)...

M1079 Shop Van. Four-point captured system. Aft mounts are ridged, forward mounts are captured spring.

Yeah, I need to look long and hard as to exactly where mine is flexing/rocking. If it's the suspension, then there's one solution. If it's the hab rocking on the frame, there's another. And if it's both then I'll approach it another way. Something like you posted secures the frame but not...

I don't know that I've ever seen a M1148 in US civilian hands. I'm sure there are a few, but I don't even recall seeing one auctioned on GP stateside. The only one I can recall being auction on GP was yours. LOL What's a good, running M1148 worth stateside? I've never seen Bret, Alex, or...

Buuuuut.... I didn't start with a bare skin of metal. I already have a 2" thick solid sandwich foam encased aluminum wall, so the vaper barrier is pre-existing. Glued to *that* will be 1" of Sika foamboard. Then a 1/2" air gap followed by a sheet of plywood. Note that even that container...

Some cool bits but after VAT and shipping and other fun EU surprises, you'd be better off taking the pic to a fab shop and saying "make me this". I've seen some interesting Steyr parts over the years but getting them here was....expensive.

So with regards to insulation. I had assumed (incorrectly) that I wanted to avoid an "air gap" in the wall and fill it up with insulation. From what I'm reading now, that's not ideal for what I'm trying to achieve. In fact, several sources I'm seeing recommend a 1/2"-3/4" air gap when used...

Got the fridge enclosure and several other pieces sanded, filled, prepped and painted yesterday. All wood in the build will be primed/sealed with Kilz then a coat of semigloss exterior paint. The "exposed" areas will get a coat of high gloss Rustoleum white. Everything is glued and then secured...