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You posted a fact. Were you asking a question or are you thinking you may have a problem? The 2 red lights are simply the illumination lights for the gauges. They are NOT warning lights. Please read the -10TM to learn some of the basics, and post clearly. If you have a question, ask a question.

If you follow the troubleshooting section of the -20 tm, it takes about 20 minutes to completely and methodically test the whole system.

All that needs to be done to a stock system to have manual control is to ground the light blue wire.

What relay do you have? All that needs to be done to a stock system to have manual control is to ground the light blue wire. This has been posted in depth many times.

This current thread may help you also. Did you search before posting?

Besides, the Government is probably tracking you with the original GP controller card...

This threads title indicates the op was comparing a ford relay to a manual switch. The first post does not talk about that. It asks about automatic or manual control. It would help everyone if the OP would clearly post what he wants to know.

Or remove it and repair it?

Not if he is using a "Ford" relay.

You heat the glow plugs prior to cranking, and while cranking. It depends what relay you are using to determine how you would wire it.

You loose the automatic operation that senses temperature and voltage and applies the correct amount of power(timed) and also provides "after glow". 5-6 seconds is not the correct amount of time for any particular situation.

You can go as low as the TM or Dash data tag says.

You only need to change them when they are bad. As regular maintenance(monthly) or when you notice increased cranking time to start, you simply measure them with an ohm meter.

And yes, you can just go anywhere and tell them you need a u joint for a 1984 Chevy Blazer or pickup.

At the bottom of that link is a list of common manufacturers and their part numbers. There are 17 common name brands listed with their brand's part number. MFG SKU means, manufacturers stock keeping unit. This is a National standard that has been used for decades now. It should be obvious...

All this has been covered in depth and posted. This thread does not help provide reliable(and accurate) information. This is why we like old threads updated or searched out.

The fuses are typically rated for up to 250 volts. The amp rating does not change with voltage.

A search on SS for "slow blow fuse", should find dozens of threads with the correct fuse listed.

http://www.parttarget.com/2520-00-848-0257_2520008480257_11549.html/-11A78C32-CC68-4DF2-A45B-5407BEB3DBC7

You should try posting in sentences. It would help everyone understand you. It is also a rule.