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I can't get the site to attach the TM and it's too big to email.
Sorry
I did try the -20 on the site and it did not open for me either.
I'll try again tomorrow.
The drumlock is very simple. Try unthreading the hex head out of the housing. It's just a pin with a spring inside a bolt.
That is an older pin style. It could be as old as 1953.
This thread has some good pics that might help you understand what is in there.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79776-Gama-Goat-owner-err-herder&p=1011919&viewfull=1#post1011919
Gee, I left out the gorey part.
Before I resorted to grinding the rivets off, I was using a 3/8 drift punch in the hole in the hub, trying to break the axle free from the hub.
Never swing a 12# sledge hammer into a 3/8 punch.
It broke and hit me in the forehead leaving a perfect circle(hole...
Jack bolts in the jack bolt holes in the drum.
With some pressure on the jack bolts, you can hit the center of the drum to shock it if needed.
Also, be sure the splines on the drive hub are not frozen(spray lube in the center hole and use a punch to make it move in a bit to know it is not...
Cold yes.
Both closed, only if you do one cylinder(both valves) at a time and want to turn the engine over for every cylinder.
The chart Rayzer posted follows the same method that is in TM 9-2815-210-34-2-2, and you only turn the engine over and adjust in 2 positions(rather than 6).
This is...
The manufacturer say you can use it every time you fill up. http://powerservice.com/psp_product/diesel-kleen-cetane-boost/
I use it every time I fill up.
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