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Only once.

That was discussed in another thread some time ago. From memory the new ball and socket ends do hop less than the old rubber ones.

Pretty cool man. Get us some pics of your spread in the camper if you don't mind.

Hard to understand what you are saying with absolutely zero punctuation... Maybe you can edit to help us understand what you need?

Please post in complete sentences so we can understand you. You have an air leak in the fuel system somewhere, or the in tank pump is not working.

You'll like those.

About 40,000 miles now, still the same blowby, still runs and drives fine... When I can drive that is...

Just buy a new pump. You'll thank me later.

Check the valves before you pull the injectors. Valve adjustment is free.

I would say injector if it doesn't clear up with new fuel filters.

Yes, what he said. And yes in the tires as well.

Stop fretting guys. Trailer is coming here. Done deal.

If you have to run a plate you will have to add a plate light.

Just leave it be and let me fix it when it gets here. Please.. No mechanic likes to go behind someone else.

I've seen that truck ramp countless times in my life. That is one of the ones on the westbound side of I-70, west of Denver and Golden.

I'll get some and post them when the site is back to normal. I don't like this vbulletin thing...

Yes without the electric lift pump the injector pump will sustain damage from fuel starvation over time.

I mounted mine on the engine block itself. Didn't want to add weight to that panel as they already have a habit of cracking.

The Chinese made hydraulic heads work and last just fine. They are one Chinese product you shouldn't be afraid of.

Yes, the brake fluid leaks on these trucks are most commonly the wheel cylinders. If you plan to drive the truck on the street it is pretty much a safety requirement that you service all six hubs, and simultaneously either rebuild or replace all of the brake wheel cylinders. I can 100% promise...