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Do you have good pressure at the water drain valve while running? Have you removed the fuel check valves?

I have not heard RWH chime in on this issue, I would think he has the most experience in this matter.

A manual switch will not work unless you switch it every time you come to a stop, and then again when you take off or you will set a DTC code in the TCM. I have heard that some put a small 24V relay connected to the brake light switch and the normally closed contacts wired to the TCM leads, that...

While you had the IP out did you confirm that the governor weights were turning? was there resistance to turning the input shaft? The only reason I can think of that would cause the advance pin to be sheared is because the IP seized, sometimes that shears off the shaft, I would think if that...

To disconnect and connect J1 the batteries can be connected but the run switch needs to be off.

More information. The light is on any time the run switch is on or all the time? So now it only flashes code 12? The first thing I would do is unplug the J1 connector at the TCM and make sure that the TCM is what is causing the light to be on.

Just in case anyone is interested, a pair of group 51 batteries fit just right in a HMMWV battery box. With all the conversions and LS swaps etc. I doubt I am the only one running dual voltage systems where the 12V is the dominant source of power. I am running dual alternators so the systems are...

You are going to have to make sure you are getting fuel to the fuel inlet, that IP does not draw fuel from the governor housing, that is the excess, the last place the fuel goes before being returned to the tank.

I am sorry, :( if someone changed the flanges they went to allot of time and effort to screw things up!! It's always fun to fix other folks screw ups!!

I see, what flanges did they use?

That looks like a 12K inner (plunge) end to me, there is more than one inner 12K plunge end, the others are for later model trucks. The A2 12K trucks use the same drive flanges as the Basic/A1 10K trucks. Is it possible you are trying to fit the wrong ( ECV/REV) half shafts?

If he is using an 8 speed than that is not a gen I or II transmission and would have no bearing on this subject, not a member so I cannot look. EDIT, actually I am, no this conversion has nothing in common with the OPs post.

Here is a link with some visual explanations, IIRC you will need a conversion flex plate and a crank extension, the crank extension gets the 4L80 torque converter correctly spaced into the transmission...

I had to do the reverse when I installed a 6L80 behind the Detroit engine, I had to use a spacer between the bell housing and engine rather than a spacer between the torque converter and crank.

They make adapters to be able to use the legacy transmissions on the LS motors, the crank to rear engine flange depth is different, and as TOBASH said you should use a gasser torque converter. The info is not hard to find...

Unless you are running continuous digital modes or my wife is talking on the radio the actual average load is rather small so I would run them off of the 12V tap

Be VERY careful with that missing CDR valve, you now have a direct opening into the intake manifold, one little nut,washer or any other trash gets in there and the motor is TOAST! The very first thing you need to do is get one on that motor!!

Have you gone through everything bolted to the engine, all the mounts like the alt etc?

No problem, if you look at the HMMWV forum. forum at the top of the list of posts there is a line called "Thread title" Start typing on that line, it is as it says the thread title, a box will automatically drop down for the content of your post.

The fuse is to protect the wiring, switch etc. I would think 10A would be fine.