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So you still have tight spots even with the linkage removed? I cannot see how the hydroboost could give you repeatable tight spots at the same steering positions, you said it happened even with the engine off, again cannot see how the hydroboost could affect that... But yes if you can you can...

I am not sure why you have not received an answer retiredwarhorses said he has installed several of them and for sure some others have also.

Chart

You still look a little low, there are many charts out there for the R-134A that show the desired pressures depending on ambient temperature, these are with the fan on high and at 1800-2000RPM But the low pressure switch should be allowing the compressor come on although it may be short cycling.

Glad you found the bad switch, that was starting to look suspect, yes the valve is closed (powered) in AC mode, failure of this valve is very common, you can force it closed, many replace it with a manually controlled valve and just switch it depending on the season. Yes there is a drain hose...

I got to the point I could test drive the truck on my ranch road, this is a very nice truck, very "peppy" great oil pressure, runs like a watch. I really wish and am thinking of maybe keeping this one as it is the best one I have had my hands on. It has all the advantages of an A2 with the...

I would say that meter is toast.

Also at this point explain what you are trying to do, get the cond fans to run, get the comp. to kick in or something else.

Does your meter work when you measure the battery voltage? Also you need to get ground for the neg lead from the engine block or battery, never from the body. You may have a bad A/C switch

"Upper edge of shroud must align with radiator tank tank seam" Seems self explanatory to me.

BTW the labels low and high speed on wires 399 and 400 behind the blower switch are backwards, the wire 400 out of the fan switch is low speed..... 400 goes to the low speed resistor, 399 bypasses the resistor for high speed at least on this schematic.

Until you actually need high blower on the evap (filling of coolant) do all testing with the blower on low, this will bypass any possible issue with the diode in the fan circuit. If you can get the cond fans to run by jumping the low pressure switch then the only things left in the comp. clutch...

That makes no sense if you are actually not seeing 24V at the temp switch

You have a bad connection in the other direction, you should see 24V. You need to start looking at circuit 435, does the high and low speed work on the front evap? You can also look at 435 C/D trying both the low and high fan position.

Just for giggles touch the heater core (carefully) it is accessible on the left side of the evap between the evap and the tunnel and make sure it is not hot. It should be making some cold air, the numbers are not that far off. What are the numbers at around 1800 rpm?

According to the chart I looked at for 134A those numbers would be about right for 100F but IIRC that would be with an engine speed of 1800-2000RPM not at idle.

Do you have the schematic? Start at wire 435 at the temp switch mounted to the evap, if you have power there continue with 438, 436 etc. if not back up towards the AC switch.

Sorry, I see you addressed the water valve, are you sure you had it blocked?

If a dealer says "replacement" then unfortunately it is usually a cheap knockoff even though it may not be "cheap" :(

So you need to check 415A at the relay and the feed 445A, if you have 24V at both of those then ether the relay is bad or the relay ground is bad.