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I made some progress today. I had scored seven 24 bolt paired rims from beltfed, today I used a 90 deg taper milling bit to chamfer 4 of the 24 mounting holes on each rim, assembled them with tapered lug nuts and put them on my test rig and measured the radial runout of each rim. The...

Here is the part number for a "universal" valve that is 16mm, same as 5/8 they are literally everywhere. HV2211C

Here is the manual valve, if you want to source one yourself (universal) the hose is 5/8" get some good quality hose also because I think the electric valve is longer so the hoses may be short even if they are in good cond. https://real4wd.com/product/valve-stop-heater-control/

Many have installed a manual valve, no need to disturb the AC at all, it is in the hoses in front of the engine side of the fire wall on the passenger side, If it were me I would just use an earlier version valve which is cable controlled or can be switched manually under the hood.

The issue with Yermo tires is they have permanent flat spots from sitting in the desert that just will not clear up no matter how far you drive or how good they look.

Nice truck! from what I hear you can count on replacing the tires right off on any truck out of Yermo, evidently sitting in the desert kills them, and many of the rubber parts like hoses etc.

Welcome to the SS forums!!!

Well we all assume it is a HMMWV, I am going to guess you have a M1097R1 with a GVWR of 10,000lb by the serial number, this makes a significant difference. BTW your truck is really not a 2007, it was rebuilt to M1097R1 standards in 2007, most likely it started as a 1980s/early 1990s M998 SO...

You can get it directly off of the alternator output lead

What vehicle do you have?

The sending unit needs two things, a complete path (wire) to the gauge and the sending unit must have a good ground, the tank is plastic.

Welcome to the SS forums!!

That contactor going bad is a fairly common issue, post a picture of the data tag on your PCB box as it may be on of the ones that should be replaced because of its age. You will eventually have issues with the rest of the box but might get a few more years out of it, there are other options...

Remove the PCB (EESS) box and open it up there is a contactor (solenoid) inside that LOOKS the same as used for many starter (edit and winch) applications, it is 24V and should be rated at 100A AND continuous duty, do not cheap out on this part buy a good brand name contactor. The heater fan...

Dang I did not realize the 6BT weighed 320lb more than the Dmax... it is however all cast iron which does have its advantages. The Dmax only weighs about 80lb more than the 6.5T, adding 400lb will be noticed.

Spring side goes in. solid face goes out

The TPS has absolutely nothing to do with the fuel system, I suspect your "mechanic" has less knowledge than you think, Coug (and others) have given some good advice, until you positively ensure the glow plug system and plugs are working correctly throwing money at it will not get it fixed.

They are not that hard, you don't even need any special tools, I am 66 and 3/4 broken down and I can still get them done no problem.

Interestingly enough there were some van or bus applications that used the 6BT and a 4L80, that adapter angled the engine for clearance, I wonder if that would be useful in a HMMWV conversion???? I have no idea what mods were done to the engine as far as oil pan/pump pickup that may have been...

A basic M998 weighs about 5200, 4L80 180lb, 6.5L 750lb, so the starting weight of a basic or A1 without the engine trans,exh would be around 4200 as Coug said the later the truck the more basic weight