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I used the signal from the crank sending unit 4p/rev. I was never able to get an aftermarket tach to work on the AC tap. (edit), the signal from the crank sensor is 5V IIRC, if you have a NA you can also use the RPM sending unit on the back of the engine 1p/rev but you will need to provide a...

It was tested in a 6.5L turbo truck, unless modified no 6.2L HMMWV had the 4L80E The reason the 6.2L civy TCM will work is because those trucks had a mechanical IP like all HMMWVs have, at some point when the civy trucks all went to electronically controlled IPs the TCM would change because that...

I posted a link to the TMs in post #13 above, the MWO TMs are there, as I said the first two I am pretty sure were never applied to the A2 as those mods were incorporated in the build process long before the A2 or even the A1 came along so it looks like the data plates actually mean nothing as...

That is why everything installed in a HMMWV is water proof, they are always going to leak, was never meant not to.

The backspacing is the issue, wheel for say a 3/4 ton chevy do not work well as the tire sticks out too much...

Sounds like it would be much easier to by a Hummer H1 then "militarize" it if one wanted all of those creature comforts, it would probably cost less in the long run. I do not think you will be able to have a correct looking "flat" paint job using the clear coat method, If you want a shiny paint...

I can read/write the OEM EPROMs but Eastern Surplus has them pretty cheap, I cannot write to those modules as they are actually PROM not EPROM but they work the same. Yours is probably OK but if not it's not a big deal.. https://www.easternsurplus.net/Products/SearchResults

It looks like it would work, the only civy TCM I have had tested was a 16147609 and it worked fine. None of the rebuilt units come with an EPROM and all I have seen have a core charge.

Looking at the photos it looks like a straight up M1097A2, 4 speed, driver heater duct etc. I have no idea how those data plates got onto that truck, the first two MWOs were only done to basic trucks as all others had those mods from the factory. I would not be too concerned at this point as...

The first link in the TM sticky lists many of the MWOs. https://www.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv

I am curious, did you have to fill out an EUC application? some of the trucks on GP are sold by individuals not the government. Actually at this point it looks like GP sold a 1989 M1097A2. Does it have a 4 speed? (EDIT would have park)

I like the Rustoleum flat BBQ paint, (7778830) can even apply to radio ant and such as it has for many years been without any metals (I think all paint now contain no metals) I buy it by the case from Home Depot when on sale. EDIT, not the Ultra, sometimes it just does not get flat enough.

Glad you got it going :giggle: , I have read before someone mentioning the size difference, can't remember where. Curious what you used to remove the excess material? What was the part number of the regulator you used?

WELCOME to the SS forum!! Look very carefully at the data plate and make sure it matches the paperwork as I don't think the the A2 was being built in 1989, try to get any discrepancies taken care of right away. Very nice looking rig!!!

It also would not be a bad idea to jack up all 4 corners, one at a time using the jacking point on the lower control arms, that way the weight of the vehicle is still riding on the suspension, just enough to clear the tire from the ground, then push,pull each tire up and down and sideways...

All you can do is inspect everything, look for loose bolts on the caliper brackets, half shafts etc, push/pull on everything, look at the brake pads and lines. If you have not done so already change all the gear oil in the diffs and hubs, inspecting the magnetic drain plugs. Look for leaks or...

Welcome to the SS forum!! Sorry for what has happened to you, that is a real bummer.

For some reason the cam chain broke, when it balled up at the bottom of the pan the crankshaft sprocket pushed it through the pan. That motor needs to come out, the Detroit is definitely an "interference" engine meaning if the cam gets out of time pistons will hit valves so on top of whatever...

It looks like you still have brake light switch problems, maybe the new switch is not adjusted correctly, not sure that will fix the "issue" but need to get that taken care of first. there are two parts of the brake light switch, one for the brake lights and one for the transmission, you cannot...

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!