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CARC is tough to replicate. In order to coat small parts like radio mounts and interior light brackets, I took a part with fresh CARC on it into my local Sherwin-Williams Industrial guys. After scanning it with their computer, and with the FS595b number in hand, it still took them two tries to...

Exactly right on the fine threads SixSpeed. Didn't mean to confuse but I've had old Cannon plugs (usually under deuces or five tons... or 404s) that didn't want to slide smoothly enough for the retainer to force the plug up and off the contacts. Had to kinda unscrew and pull, and unscrew and...

Unscrew the "cannon plug" from either the cab or generator. Whichever has the least number of clamps securing it to any surrounding sheet-metal. The knurled collar closest to the flange with the four screws is the retainer. Unscrew it (you may have to unscrew it a ways then pull out on the cable...

Just my two cents... One of the reasons for having n MV is to put it out as close to authentic as possible. As such it's more than a truck or jeep, it's a part of a proud military heritage as well as a rolling image of MV collectors everywhere. Whether it's a museum-grade, just-as-issued; or...

Bjorn, You're not reading the fine print... "Sealed for Life" means when the seal breaks and the part dies, it's life is over-- and so is the warranty. If parts weren't designed to break, how would they ever get to sell you new ones? We need parts that carry a warranty like; "Guaranteed-- not...

If that's the type of load it was designed to move then "off-road" or "rough terrain" might have meant unpaved roads.

Bjorn, Shocks are there to smooth out the ride and help keep you centered in your lane at road speeds. At 15mph or slower, I wouldn't think there'd be enough up and down suspension motion for your shocks to worry about; unless you're on a stretch of road with severe pot-holes or an exaggerated...

Goats would float if you could drive them into the water at a very shallow angle. If you hit a drop off or came in too steep you'd end up driving them under water. The one's with the aluminum-blocked engines were not as heavy in the front but it only meant you could retrieve them with a lighter...

Those look like bigger tires than the stock 9.00X20s; maybe 11.00X20s. I can't tell from the pictures but do the front tires match the rears? That's often a sure sign that it was singled out by the military. Either way it should make it more streetable since you've got less tread on the ground...

Yep, HMMWV ambulances.

Sorry the pictures aren't any better.

When they're running they're loud, hot and slow. Unimogs have very tight tolerances (thanks, german uber engineering) so everything has to be lined up exactly or they don't come apart or go together without a fight. Until recently, Unimogs had torque tube drivelines so you had to pull the...

Click on the resources tab at the top of the home page, select "classified ads" from the drop down box.

"Resource" tab at the top of the page then go to the tech bulletins section of the SS library. There are S-W CARC data sheets there and they have all you need to know about applying CARC... even spray gun orifice size and the best reducers to use.

This is how I mounted the lights on the back of the baby HEMTT. Seems to be how a lot of the tractors are set up. One picture shows the bulb type rear lights and the other is the LED faceplates on low profile MWO kit brackets.

I buy from several mfrs. who supply the military, keep all my receipts and still make a point of NOT taking any of my personal gear when I go on post. "Wheeled vehicle mechanic selling nice GI gear" puts more red flags in the air than a Tibetan Monastery.

All these may explain the noise but not his complaint of loss of power and trouble starting. Now I'm thinking back to intake or exhaust systems. If not a leaky gasket then maybe one that's broken and part of it has fallen into the air stream and is blocking flow. The mystery continues.

True, no vacuum like a gas engine makes; but just enough so that some air falls into the cylinders when the intake valves open. And you're right, nothing but air in the intake so the possibility of leaning out the mixture wouldn't hold true here. Said I had some ideas... didn't say they were...

From the sound description and the trouble starting I'd say a vacuum leak in the intake system. Either a bad gasket at the intake manifold to cylinder head connection or a cracked intake manifold. You may be able to pinpoint the problem by starting the truck and spraying WD 40 or some other...

Hey, Gary. Sorry I missed out on the fun. Sounds like everyone had a good time. Saw the pictures of my ground anchor-- thanks for putting them out. Thought I had a scarce item here but then dma251 ran across one for his HEMTT. Guess they do bubble to the surface occassionally.