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BTW you can also contaminate the geared hubs, diffs, transmission and transfer case with diesel from a bad fuel pump, diesel is not a very good lubricant, as I have found out first hand..... One reason I only run high end electric fuel pumps.

Once the transfer case is full of ATF it can travel through the vent system to the geared hubs, diffs, etc.

This is a prime example why everyone should change ALL the fluids and filters on any HMMWV they get from auction, of course now that you checked you know you have a problem and what to do about it before it becomes a BIG problem. By-passing the cooler is easy, slide under it with a flashlight...

I see they sold one listed as a 1986 with a 700K serial number, geez... Fact is whatever the SF-97 says is the final word, hopefully not being 25 years old will not be a big problem...

I just looked back at several M1097A1s that sold in Springtown, most did not list the actual serial number OR include a picture of the data plate, now that I sloppy/lazy work!! unless there is something more nefarious going on..... EDIT, it looks like they might pull the picture of the data...

4 speed or 3 speed?

I have not, I have however gutted and repaired several different potted modules in the past. I used Acetone, unfortunately it will also remove some of the component markings, electrolytic capacitors that have a plastic sleeve over them for one thing. Sometimes you can"read" the component as it...

I suspect he got it out of Springtown, it likely has a 5XX,XXX or 6XX,XXX serial number, body number means nothing in the context of titling it, the SF-97 will be the serial number/year that was listed in the sale. Dang I just realized my 1992 and 1993 trucks may actually have more value to some...

It is likely it will be a 2005, the only place I know of that had the original date or original serial number was on the data plate they removed when they re-built it

Sorry, the TPS is the throttle position sensor, it is basically a variable resistor on the side of the injection pump that tells the TCM (transmission control module) what position the accelerator pedal is in. As with all variable resistors it can develop bad spots (would be referred to as a...

I would re-visit the alignment of that switch, or possibly the TPS alignment, many transmissions unlock the converter with the gas pedal at "idle" EDIT, it could also be a bad TPS or poor TPS connections, this is where a good old analog meter will be helpful as if the TPS has a bad "spot" in it...

Before you wash the engine, did your truck have a fording valve? (high exhaust and intake) if so have you addressed the missing CDR valve?

The shunt is mounted to the side of the battery box, it is connected to the negative terminal on the "lower" battery If you have a 4 speed there will be a wire connected to the "center" connection between the lower and upper battery

Also do not just reverse them, that could be expensive.

Assume nothing, check everything!

I read in another thread the low voltage code was 4 flashes, post #19 did not state the number of flashes, again only what I have read.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/wait-light-flashing.168672/

Also are you sure you have the batteries connected correctly?

Start with the basics, download the TMs so you have a schematic, grab a volt meter and just start troubleshooting, if you do not have experience troubleshooting automotive electrical systems this is really not the one you want to learn on, you should get some help. First thing is inspect all...

I am not familiar with the "smart" boxes, does sound like a "code" hopefully someone with more experience with them will chime in. But you can check all the glow plugs, no need to remove them, any that do not ohm out very low ohms is kaput! You should also check and clean all the grounding...