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5 ton steering box . I had one to install on mine , way too big and limited steering to the right . Plenty STRONG enough , just way too big for the 2 1/2 ton.

I would not try to weld repair . Total force gets involved here.(Area of tank X psi in tank = total force on the weld) . Great amount of pressure involved

Swedge Lok compression fittings and a new piece of tubing . Much easier than flareing the tube. These fittings are rated for 6,000 psig. They are made of Brass or Stainless Steel. Very easy to use and have a double compression collar not a standard compression feral. :-D

Welcome from south of the Mason/Dixon line !!! :driver:

I would just starter up as is !!! After she has reached operating temp , then PMCS. This will give junk in the crankcase time to evaporate from the crankcase. You knows how long mine was setting before purchased .

Flip the shims you will be pleased with the results !!!

Between the front axle nad spring . Narrow part needs to be pointed froward . Reversed from stock !!

I used a 24 volt solenoid 1/8 inch NPT on the discharge ( Small Tube ) and check valve in the return side ( Large Tube ) 1/4 inch NPT. These can both be found on Egay !!!

Just plug or cap both return and pressure line at the heater if U don't need to use it. U may be leaking at the FTD . Search bypassing the FTC and read posts on bypassing it .

Mine was leaking through from the return line which has slight pressure when the engine is running . I installed a check valve on the return side and a solenoid valve on the pressure inlet side to be sure to control the leaking . It now works fine. New valve design is great with no o rings but...

I had to take mine to work . They have a KENT - MOORE tool that looks like a large dog bone . You can attach part of the tool to the lug nut and support it with a jack stand and the Dog Bone cross arm can be hit with a sledge hammer to remove the lug nut. Expensive tool but it will work. We...

Mine was the same leaked straight through !! I added a solenoid valve and check valve to cure this problem .

That will work just fine. I run sae 30 in mine. and I think it tkes 22 quarts . Shuold be on the tag on right side of dash .

New design . No o rings to leak !!! Just be sure to check with air pressure before installing , my NEW design leaked straight through . This will fill the crankcase with fuel !!!

Correct 90w gear oil 50w lube oil are the same viscosity . Should not make any difference in resistance in gears and internal trans parts

1 lb Folgers coffee (plastic ) can !!! String attached to the rim and tied to mirror works great never lost one yet !!! :beer:

Most likely happened installing it with a hammer , instead using a bolt to slowly press it on !!!

Mine was very hard to locate . Try not to feel for a leak with your hand , discharge pressure of the pump is HIGH PRESSURE and could inject fuel into your skin . Not good on living tissue . Mine turned out to be a line leaking .

My new one was purchased from Memphis. Check with air pressure before installing . Mine leaked straight through filling the crankcase with fuel !!!!

Destroyed 2 of them trying to get the apart . Got a third one apart only to determine they were Sqare cut rings instaed of orings . McMaster Carr for replacement. New rings still leaked !!! Replaced with new nozzle it leaked straight through filling the crankcase with fuel !!! Addded a solenoid...