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Sounds like the run solenoid in your EESS box might be going bad, one of the things it does is excite the alternator, no output from the run solenoid= no output from the alt. that also powers the blower. I do not see any flash from my wait light when hot.

It looks like the blue wires go to the thermostat (temperature control) One comes from the ECU and the other from the compressor relay

You may be able to do that with a 6.2L but AFAIK all the civy 6.5L engines have an "electronic" DB-4 IP not a DB-2 IP. I am curious how you are sure the IP is bad?

IF you have a 200A alternator you can tap off 12V on the connection between the two batteries (always use a fuse here and draw no more than 20A or so, those fans may draw too much) if you have a 60A alternator you must use a 24/12V converter. I have no idea about the blue wires you have not...

I see the relays are already connected to the fans, all you have to connect are the blue wires (to pressure switch) ground all the black wires and connect the two red wires to a 12V source

My helmet top, it is about as aerodynamic as a brick. If anyone has one and they are not 6'6" I highly recommend flipping the side doors. It has been swapped in its parking bay with the DuraVee as it's guna be in the 40s tomorrow and I have to go to town. I have seen those doors on a couple...

You can sell the ambulance body for more than scrap value, too damn bad they remove the doors or I might buy one. Sorry I cannot speak about the holes.

A wire with a couple ring terminals is all you really need to connect the two together and the ground wire.

Sounds simple enough what is the problem?

The Detroit is a nasty beast, black is normal. I would not exceed 3K on oil changes. Using synthetics is an exercise in futility as it is contamination not "wear" that determines oil change intervals so synthetic oil does not extend the oil life like in a gasser.

How about asking the vendor?

The trans must be in neutral because it has no park, the truck cares not what the transfer case is doing as far as starting goes.

I recently bought a powered grease gun at auction, it had a tube of synthetic grease from Mystik in it, it had separated and "leaked" out inside of the case, the SECOND opened the case that stuff got All over my shop and it is nearly impossible to get rid of. No more of that "stuff" for me!!

No problem, everyone here is happy to help. Here is the link to the technical manuals. It is a good idea to familiarize yourself to your new toy, the operator manual is the first one and could save you time and possibly injury. https://www.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv

Put it in H, yes when it is in neutral it is in neutral H= high range HL means it is in high range LOCKED. There is a differential in the transfer case that allows the front and rear drive shaft to move at different speeds but it is still pulling on both differentials in H L= low range locked HL...

Welcome to the forum. First it is always in FWD unless it is in neutral. it is a "full time" transfer case, you can also select HL (high lock) and low (which is locked) Probably simple driver error, are you shutting the truck off when trying to shift the transfer case?

Actually in my humble opinion you should try and borrow one first and see how it performs, as pointed out the difference between a 4L and a 6L is almost same as going to 40" tires, (the 6L has some distinct advantages) but tires are MUCH less work and money. Besides you may want to spend some...

It is on the schematics 6C and 6B appear to go to the STE/ICE.

It was delivered with most of it painted black the engine and trans were natural. The military first painted it green, the samples I found on the vehicle were 34079 forest green which would be correct for circa 1982-3. As far as I can tell all the Army FAVs were green 4 color camo, which was...