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I finally got my winch installed. I put in a 12k badlands from Harbor Freight in between the front frame rails behind the bumper. I measured the width between the rails, and cut the mount to fit. One of the bolt holes wasn't quite right so I had to dust off my welder and fill about a half inch...

I finally put the heater core in I've been sitting on since last fall. The original one wasn't leaking internally but the hose barb was mangled when I bought the thing and i could never get it sealed right. I stuffed in some foam on each side of it so it would be sealed good. Also figured this...

What did you end up paying for the rubber brake line if you don't mind saying? I'm fixing to replace the rubber lines on mine and expect to spend ten or fifteen bucks a piece for them.

If it's like mine, it's probably leaking from the rear window seal. That's what caused mine to get water in the cab and rust the one side cab corner.

Loosen the bolt at the banjo fitting and if it squeezes in then, you have a restriction in the lines somewhere. Most likely in the rubber portion near the tire. This may seem silly but don't forget to tighten it back up and bleed your caliper.

I finished up my installation of the Off Road Design steering brace. A few tips for anyone else. You'll have to oval out the holes in the bracket on the front of the cross member for the front bolts to line back up once you sandwich the front brace in. The rear brace hits the trans cooler hard...

It is pretty easy once you figure it out. It's just kind of a pain. Like was said, you'll never get the push rod to stay back up if you don't take the second plate off and put a gob of grease on the end of the push rod. Hold it up in there while you rotate the engine using the crank bolt until...

I just finished up replacing the drag link tie rods and the upper kingpin bushings on the 1028. The driver side upper kingpin bushing was cracked into two pieces. The one on the passenger side was fine. The new springs were about 5mm taller than the old ones. Hopefully this will eliminate the...

I installed a separate washer pump as mine was broken when i bought it. Had to adjust the nozzle up, it was spraying straight at the bottom of the windshield. Managed to make my wipers park normally again in the meantime. I tried to put on new transmission mounts, but I got two different...

I changed out the Power steering and hydroboost pressure hoses off of my power steering pump. I used the "sunsong" brand off of rockauto. They are crimped well, are bent pretty close. Only a tiny wiggle was necessary to bolt them to the tab at the bottom of the master cylinder. My old ones...

I dunno, man. At this point, you might just have to flush and fill the whole power steering system so you at least know whats in it. Bonus being you get out any old fluid and start fresh. I have to say though, Ive sucked the fluid out of the power steering reservoir a bunch of times and always...

I bought it from corvette central through amazon. The corvette central part number is 353248. There are several corvette part places that make their variation of it. Zip Corvette sells it as CZ-804. Ecklers corvette its a 25-123609-1. Its a 1970-1982 frame rail to fuel pump hose. With...

I bought the bushings already,but the ones I bought aren't in the box with my truck parts. I'll find them sooner or later

I bought a corvette fuel line s hose recently and installed that and a new fuel pump on the 1028. Couldn't have asked for a nicer day after the last three weekends of rain around here. I replaced the nearly foot long hose that was on it with the new one, and it looks to me like it'll work...

Problem solver is their "premium" line. The other is probably the "standard" replacement. You'll have to decide for yourself if the so called gusher bushing business is something you buy into.

If you unscrew the bottom drain you have to unscrew the top vent/drain or nothing will come out. I have to unscrew the bottom drain while its running on mine because the top vent handle is broken off. Ive been meaning to replace it, but its just never been a problem.

You can vacuum it out if you want. Once you fill it up and then bleed the whole system, you should have a complete fluid change. I can tell you what I did though. When I purchased my truck what was in the master cylinder was a mess of unknown mix. I vacuumed out the master cylinder and cleaned...

Must have had a bad batch of fuel if that was the case.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?173011-Tell-me-my-gears-are-shot-in-my-14-bolt&highlight= Check the video in my first post. If that is what you are describing, then it is normal for the rear locker to perform that way.

Are you talking about play when turning the driveshaft?