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A keyed battery cut-off switch in my opinion is the best option. A keyed ignition switch is still real vulnerable to jumping the terminals, and getting the vehicle started. Most people would think the batteries are dead when they turn the ignition switch on, push the start button and nothing...

Here are my measurements, I used a machinist's scale, and sized the 4 mounting holes with drill bits. It should be fairly accurate. Anyone know where I can get a cap for a NATO single pin outlet?

:ditto:

I'm in the process of doing the same thing Clinto. I do have an adapter plate, do you need the dimensions?

That's why we make the "big buck$".

Bad governor would be my first guess. If you already haven't do so, download the TM's for your vehicle. There is a wealth of troubleshooting information in there.

I wouldn't think that dataplate matters, unless you're using the vehicle for commercial purposes. Good question though.

The vehicle's weight no-load is 21,600, add 10,000 lbs (5tons) and you get 31,600, or the maximum safe vehicle weight.

Very good choice, I have used this same charger with great sucess.

I remember, back in the day, when you could repair a lighting unit for about a dollar. I just replaced the lamp and not the whole fixture, ahhh those were the days.

Good call Steve. Since my line cord for the charger comes out the shotgun side of the truck, I posted a sign in the cab that says "Don't take the battery charger with you." :oops: Don't ask me why I did this. aua

What is the amp rating of your battery disconnect? Use the converter, it's easier on the batteries. There are a bunch of threads with pros and cons of tapping the 24 Volt battery system at the mid-point. (More cons than pros.)

If you have a set of calipers, measure the seal in every direction. Usually a seal and bearing house counterman can fix you right up, given the correct dimensions. We do this all the time at work when we can't read or don't know the correct replacement seal number.

DO NOT put the squirt head where they tell you to in the directions. Move it as far forward as you can in the cowl. I don't recall what dimension was listed in the directions, but it squirts the widshield in the lower inside corners. Moved further forward, the squirt pattern will be wider, and...

Between the secondary and final fuel filter, there is a brass bleed screw. Turn ignition switch to on position, crack bleed screw a little, wait for air to escape. Close bleed screw when fuel appears. Start truck. Be sure and download the TM's for your truck, if you haven't do so already. There...

I don't think you'd have any problem with the thread-locker. I would imagine there would be still a lot of thread to thread contact.

No title, no deal.

Getting back to the OP's question, you're doing OK. It's easier to ask for forgiveness, than to ask for permission. Who knows, maybe she might want one? You can always say, "Look Honey, I bought these for us"!

Any Wife that buys parts for a Guy's truck is a keeper!

It's made of steel, you could have it welded if one doesn't turn up.