Search results

how much weighs a bale? I'm paying this year $20 /220 lbs a raise of 100% last 3 years... @CR cool idea and good work!

...

thank you! with all the kind responses its fun to write and share!

PETEC bodywork adhesive and sealant, it's a Polyurethane based adhesive, aplied with a toothed, notched whatever trowel. The PCV is simply pressed on with a rubber roller. no fancy stuff like a veneer press is necessary.

the dividig wall is coated with 1mm PVC to the shower side and fiberglass wallpaper on the other.

this is the backside (to the bed) of the bench-backrest. nice storage space:-D

furniture... not much to say about. I'm a chipmaker, metalworkig is my world. i've done my best, a pro carpenter would make it better. measure, cut, sand, paint, sand, paint again... I've made everythig out of 15mm lumber core plywood, except the seat and the dividing wall. They're 19mm...

heater & ducts heater is a TRUMA E4000 , needs very low electricity, exhaust goes through the wall (not yet, after painting...:-D) ducts are made out of 1mm aluminium sheet metal. they're only for appearance, the warm air goes through a special hose. Oulets are 2 under the table, 1 close to the...

this is normally for outside.....but fits perfect. with pre-mixer, quick-connect and mini shower with hand-valve.

the faucet on the sink is household...to connect the hoses correct, i've soldered a bead... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/76451-soldering-bead-hose.html

the water tank rests on a pedestal, the pump is below.

all grey water tubes go to 1 connection point under the shower. i've made a kind of syphon and connector. its mounted on the wooden board of the carrier and goes trough the floor to the outside.

next chapter....water & shower i want a shower, but shower tubs for houses are to big and to heavy, for RV to lousy, custom made's unpayable....so i've decided to make my own. stainless steel, 1mm, cut, bend, corners TIG welded. the carrier is made out of a 8mm waterresitent wooden board...

incredible amount of work...i salute you! you're doing a good job! :beer:

great pics! thanks for sharing!

for civy chevy parts: www.us-speed-shop.de www.kts.de mil parts us-army-military-shop Fahrzeugbau Richard Fromm, Ihr Spezialist für Militärfahrzeuge (US-Fahrzeuge) in Wiesloch US Army Sale | Impressum | online kaufen

i guess its harder to steer around corners...if i see the lever between the front axle and the rear and keep in mind that the rear rubbing heavy on the ground....shorter lever, more effort. on soft ground it tends to drive straight ... over the full lock front tires... only presumptions. build...

i've seen it in your first post, the reasons for my thoughts are: the original mount truck bed flexes, too. it warps. a shelter doesn't allow any warpage if you tie it down on a bed, it's sort of more flexible than a bolted on shelter. the same is with a subframe that is make like a original...

this weekends progress....building a frame for the battery box (its a sealed box, made for that.) riveted to the floor modified the box (eliminate the pigs nose/ slave port) and finished the elektric missing: wires between the battery poles, connection from the box to the heavy duty...

i think its possible, as long as make a flexible connection between the cab and the box... look at axels M109, how much the frame flex...