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My wife wont drive either one.So if I go its in the truck,no problem.100 mile there.

I just put mine on.All I can say right now is the oil pressure is faster at start up.And the filters are cheaper and easyier to get.

My thoughts to.Ive towed my expedition to Florida and back 4 wheels down with the rear driveshaft removed.And I have towed my mud drag truck all over the states no problem with no trailer brakes.But at 10500 or 11000 pounds didnt know.You know us rednecks we will try anything.:grd:

I'm really going to try and make it this time.I'm trying to find a way of towing it behind my motorhome safely.I need to get a tow bar first to try it out.I have a diesel pusher with a 5.9 cummins.Can it be done,or a waste of time trying.Has anyone seen it done.I was going to go slow there and...

If you like it dont go by what we think,remember its your truck.:grd:

Looks trailer framed under the bed.

Didnt I read on here about putting the trany in 1st gear when taking the trany in and out.

Yes 50wt motor oil is what spicer recommends for the trans. 80-90 is too heavy. Looks like I need to drain my tranny.:doh:

Yes you need longer U-bolts,I cant remember how much longer.Call C&C he has them,thats were I got mine.Or you can have them made.

Not bad,I have the bouncy seat.

I used all the springs plus the overloads,put them together by length.No blocks.

Thanks for the pictures.[thumbzup]

The way I did my M105 springs you dont need blocks.And I made a bracket for the shocks. Haven't got around to painting anything yet.

1000 Hp REALLY.:doh:

I used M105A trailer springs.Take all the spings apart plus the overload springs and put them all together by length.Dont use the block.And use the front spring perches of the M35A2.I made a top bracket for the shocks.

:ditto:

welcome to the site.

You cant post an active auction link.Its the rules

I would not have any problem with who I bought mine from but its price for me.If it works why pay more.

A real nice job ranchhopper.Some real nice fab work.