Search results

They are. I don't think you would be able to shift it without installing the shift lever handle, or a piece of pipe, at least. Hard to tell from that pic, but it looks OK to me. Make sure that the tip of the lever is still visible, protruding through the center slot in the shift plate, any...

Whatever you do now, just don't force it! With the forks out of their respective clutch collars (which keep the forks all centered and aligned, by default), they can easily move beyond the design limits of the interlock mechanism, allowing the lever to actually jump out of the shiftplate's...

Here it is, updated: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/carc-no-worse-than-automotive-polyurethane-paint.43/

Correct P/N is 7409623, NSN 3010-00-740-9623 (NOT to be confused with 7409623-1, which doesn't work!) Possible sources: Big Mike's; Boyce I suggest reading this thread...

:ditto:

Let me correct that: all 395/85R20s used by the military are regular, non-MPT tires. Same goes for 365/85R20s. Putting them on stock Deuce wheels is not a problem, even if the manufacturers recommend a 10-inch wide wheel. But 365/80R20s (former designation 14.5R20s) are MPT, also the 12.5R20s...

That's correct. No problem to run the bigger tires on the front axle, either unlocked - on firm ground, or even locked while traversing mud or loose sand.

I've been through that phase and can assure that all three things will improve drastically once you stepped up to super-single radials. I know it's a relatively big investment, but worth it every Dollar, IMHO.

That won't help. To the contrary, the more you separate the wheel halves, the tighter the tire beads will grab the wheel. And don't use any solvents! Just regular dish-washing detergent and driving some improvised (hardwood) wedges in between both surfaces, working your way all around.

I'm assuming that's your TC, in those pics. The first two clearly show the small air cylinder, for the front output engagement. Sprag-type T-cases don't have that.

Not, going by these pics...

Keep in mind TMs aren't perfect... Both parts books (-20P and -34P ) do show #18. Because it rests against the bearing cone - which is not stationary on the spindle - this washer is hardened and machined flat, to better withstand wear. Not so, the nut... I would be surprised if there wasn't...

Sure, a long enough, push-pull cable shift assembly might also work. Probably cheaper and easier for you to install.

I was thinking of the smaller 365/80R20s, at 43" O.D., like these... Just keep in mind that those are MPT tires, which cannot be mounted on your stock wheels - unless they were modified to MPT specs, which is doable... (been there, done it...) On the other hand, 365/85R20 would fit well on...

Of course you will have to get creative in order to shift that thing... (in-out, 1/2" of travel between both detents). A small, air actuated cylinder (single action, spring loaded) is what I consider to be the most practical solution.

:ditto:

All you need is this: https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/2697/PTO-Accessory-Drive-Take-Off

That seal might be worn, but nothing else. (See my drawing which is to scale: it would be very difficult to install that seal backwards and have it stay put...) Usually water gets into the hub, coming from the steering knuckle through the spindle, and caused by ripped boots.

Should be 3920 / 3994

Not so. Deuce wheels are stud piloted. Their center hole diameter is 6.457", vs the hub at 6.362". That's a very loose "fit", at best.