Search results

It was very tricky (the bolts were very difficult to access) but got a new TPS installed today!! With the TPS sensor wire unplugged it has been shifting fairly well but still runs high RPMS in the upper gears. 60mph is about the practical limit now and I'm running 3200rpm there. 800rpm at idle...

What is this TPS setting harness about? https://blackdogcustoms.com/product/tps-setting-harness/ Will I need to calibrate or adjust a new sensor?

I just ordered a new TPS. Are you referencing the Tech 2 scan tool? Where does it plug in? (unlikely to have a J1?)

I did get $50 (policy limit) reimbursed from the insurance company for the tow. Helps.

Update: I picked up the Humvee at the shop yesterday with the rebuilt transmission. The drive clutches were blown of course. Some parts were upgraded from stock. The guy said it was running good but was shifting late, said would be ok to drive home, but that I needed to get the TPS issue...

I get the odometer may be wrong, but it has 12k miles and little over 800 hours on the tach. Mostly hard ass military miles with armor I suppose.

I am calling a local transmission guy tomorrow. I am debating whether to call a flatbed tow truck, putting the transfer case in neutral and strapping it to my truck with my wife or someone in the Humvee, or dropping the thing out in my driveway and hauling it down. Leaning toward the tow truck...

Also is it common for the up-armored Humvee's to burn up a transmission? Seems like the added weight and a 19 year old driving it could wear it fast.

I was told by a friend that the 4L80E came in both a 2wd and 4wd version and the 2wd will bolt up, but the gearing or something is different (he didn't know) and it won't work. Is this true? Does this mean the torque converter is likely also toast? How can I tell?

Any recommendations on rebuild kits? Something with a great warranty and can handle diesel torque and heavy weight that will last.

So not even worth refilling with new fluid and a filter in the off chance it was a plugged filter and just poorly maintained?

Ok, got the pan off. A member here confirmed I did need to take off the crossmember as did the TM when I checked that. The TM said remove the drain plug too though (there is not one [maybe 3L80?]). Supporting the transfer case with the floor jack. Only metal dust on the magnet. Not seeing...

I see the diagram with C4 on it. Is this the actual TCM, not either side of the J1 plug, and thus require me to remove the seat to access?

I checked voltage from d to c, p, and the rear seat base where some paint was chipped off. All give around ~0.14 V. No 5!!! ah I am confused if this means my TCM is bad or I have a bad wire between the end of J1 plug and the batteries? I do not get an error 51 "TCM bad", but that would make...

I can read codes and TCM has power. I rechecked voltage again with lever ENG STOP and RUN. ENG STOP is giving ~0.05 V for two wires and now ~0.18 V when in RUN. Other wire is zero every time and checks out for continuity to ground. Other two are "OL" open circuit when continuity tested to ground.

This morning I tried to probe, but then just unplugged the TPS harness. Three wires. 1 wire 0V, 1 wire 0.10 V, 1 wire 0.12 V. Glow plug disconnected, switch in RUN, engine off. So I have bad wiring, but not so bad it can still have some voltage?? Let me check again to make sure I am not off by...

Sorry. The J1 test is what I did. Will stick probes into that sensor and TPS.

TISS 1.46 kOhms with 1-2 kohms ref range. TOSS ~1.5 kohms with 1-2 ref range.

2-428

"Engine RPM" voltage test on the J1 spec is 0.3 V idle, 349A. I got 0.003 V. Actual RPM (the mechanical turning) is fine. 800 idle. It appears even if I manage to get the bolts off there isn't enough room to pull the sensor back to remove, see picture.