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Have you read the thread on them? When you say you are "not really convinced" - convinced of what exactly? What questions and concerns do you still have after reading the entire thread? FWIW - In my opinion 3.07's and 3.90's with the factory reductions are a waste of time unless you are...

Most of this stuff is Viton or silicone from the factory and should last a very long time in service. Barring some kind of fluid contamination, etc. The exception being the CTIS seals which are exposed to potential contamination from the wet tank (fed directly from it). This manifests as gear...

Sadly they have a shelf life. The older FRH (Flameless Ration Heater) tend to just fizzle a bit and get mildy warmish as they age. Insufficient to heat food - won't even produce enough gas for an MRE bomb. MRE's have a 3 year shelf life when stored at or below 80 degrees F. They generally will...

Wow! Everyone getting delectable treats but me. What flavor was the chapstick? :cry:

The Army only allows OEA (Oil, Engine Arctic) in -15F to -50F operation. For all other environments the Army uses 15w40. As for what OEA actually is - depends on when you ask. Right now it's something synthetic that is thinner...... that's all I know. Probably a 10w30 or a 0w30 synthetic. It...

Looks like a pipe plug. Here's mine. I'm guessing that is the access hole for the flexplate to torque converter bolts.

Wow! Score on the Tootsie Roll! I have only got sunflower seeds, a pair of rusty channel lock brand pliers (definitely military), and a pneumatic riv-nut gun that was stashed inside the cab wall behind the drivers side seat belt retractor. Took months to find that one - it rocked side to side...

Yep. Seems like most of these trucks need CTIS seals. Lack of air system maintenance and sitting. Definitely a must-do job while the hubs are apart for ECO hubs, etc.

That's not what I see. I see two sets - one to keep the oil in the axle tube, and another set to keep the oil in the hub. Separated by the u-joint.

No there is two per side. One on either side of the u-joint. Two shafts - one into the axle tube, and one into the hub. Same seal on either side. So one per side, AND one per drawing. Total of four.

It's item 10 in the A1 manual.

The u-joint is a Rockwell/Meritor/Axle Tech CP750N1 Do see some for sale..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ROCKWELL-DRIVE-LINE-PARTS-KIT-U-JOINT-P-N-CP750N1-M35-FREIGHTLINER-/143378560714 Probably can cross to something cheaper but with how much work that is to get to.... I've greased mine...

That sleeve looks like it's a discardable sealing surface sleeve. Guessing it's pressed or shrunk on probably with 609 Loctite so it doesn't move or spin. That will be entertaining. If it's on there with green sleeve retaining compound (609) you will have to heat it to get it off and usually an...

Two per truck maybe. If you are going that far in, get new front axle shaft u-joints.

Yeah - Chris's was warped so much I couldn't deck it with my normal manual method. Too much material had to be removed. And it's steel which takes FOREVER by hand with glass.

It's on the body of the switch and should be spliced to the existing ground and the existing ring terminal serviced or the whole ground wire and terminal replaced. They come like this. The large black cable with the ring terminal is the switch ground. Without that ground the switches will burn up.

Check the switch ground lead first. Some of the early push-button switches were not effectively grounded and they revised the switch to have a larger and better connected ground strap and it MUST be securely grounded to the dash. It's a seperate ground wire all on its own - not part of the...

Well that's interesting. Most of the 3126's had them at one point. IDK if perhaps some early or late one's didn't have them. As was mentioned the box is not always shown in the TM's depending on where you are looking. I know it's in the electronic parts manuals for the A1's because I tracked it...

Yes - in the C7 trucks they changed that to stainless tubing for most of the run.

The wiring harness shielding is for EMI/RFI suppression and nothing is likely to interfere with the power supply circuits to the ECM..... it's really just a mil spec requirement for non-interference in case you happen to be driving near high-powered search radar arrays, etc (and more for the...