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It started out with light skin, so no, it can't dance no matter what it tries to claim when it's drunk.

I've been performing a reverse Michael Jackson on my trailer. Going from being light skinned to dark

I like it a lot also. Came with the BEOD (Body, Explosive Ordnance Disposal) when I bought it. For the price I paid for it, I basically bought this rack and got the BEOD for free.

Other side is a slightly better fit. This side the intermediate angle is slightly less than it should have been, and the overall length at the top is short by maybe 1/8", making it a very tight fit to get on there. But it looks decent, and should do the job of protection from bashing and a...

yeah, for what they are they don't have much use in the civilian world. Too tall, too heavy, not long enough, and requiring air for the brakes are all major downsides.

NSN 5340012036542 part number 44702-10 https://real4wd.com/product/buckle-strap-assembly/ it didn't show up for me in the M1101 parts manual, so this is the part number for the HMMWV cover. I can't imagine they used a different one for the trailer than for the truck.

How about AAA RV+. towing up to 200 miles is covered with the right policy. Not quite the full 300 miles of the trip, but most of it is.

Next step of the project, if I ever get around to it, is I have 2x8' sheets of 1/4" steel I plan to attach from the jack rails in to the frame of the truck, with bends at both the front and read similar to the jack rails. I haven't decided yet if I will bolt them together, or have them welded...

This is only a guess, but most likely thing to break is the HMMWV bodywork. It depends a lot on how it's hit though as to how bad. If I were to say be T-boned by a car, the rail is definitely strong enough to spread the force out along the entire rail, with maybe a little deflection in the...

only issue with doing aluminum is it's too soft for going on rocks. Edges of rocks will dig into the aluminum, preventing it from sliding. Would work okay as just a jacking rail, but not rock sliding. I though about scoring it with a cutting wheel, but since the first one came out almost...

So I've kind of beaten up the bottom edge of the truck. Just because you can make it through the jeep trails doesn't mean you won't take a few hits from it. Anyway, I decided I wanted some protection for the edge. Talked to a friend who's business orders steel for their own needs, and he...

if he can afford it, then yes. If not, well, the military isn't the only place that 24V systems are used.

Since you have to replace it at this point anyway, you might consider switching to a 24V alternator instead. Much higher reliability and more plentiful in the market. Not all that complicated to make/modify the brackets to mount it. Just have to get the correct pulley.

For "plain ole M998" you might need to replace your rear spring perches, as some are stamped/welded and some are cast iron. They use different length springs. I believe the earlier trucks used the stamped/welded ones, and the springs were similar size front and rear, where the cast perches...

Neither the jeep nor the Range Rover has anywhere near as much unsprung weight to deal with. 160lb wheel/tire assembly, plus the weight of the geared hubs. 250ish lbs per corner maybe? So 1000 lbs of unsprung weight. Mo matter how good/soft the springs and shocks, it will never ride as good...

for anti-seize my preference is the Jet-Lube Marine Anti Seize. It's non-metallic. Nicest thing I've found is it's a LOT easier to clean up than the metallic ones (especially an old can of nickel anti-seize I used to have) but stays in the threads and whatnot...

Zinc plated steel bolts are probably your best choice. The zinc acts as a sacrificial barrier between the two metals. Also add anti seize whenever possible. I also do a layer of 20 mil PVC tape on any bare metal surfaces between the two metals. If the surfaces are painted I don't really worry...

Glad that's what you got it for. Saves a lot of grief and gnashing of teeth trying to figure out how to make it do something that's impossible. There have been more than a few of these (or other 400hz units) that were bought by people that either didn't know it was 400hz or didn't realize it...

Looking good. Now just to get a real 2" receiver for the rear bumper and not that pinball one that is notorious for bending with any type of actual weight on it.

Hate to break it to you, but that is a 400 hz generator. Even if you can get the generator to put out power, there isn't really anything in the civilian world that uses 400 hz.