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M1009---> '84 K5 Blazer M1008/1028/1031---> '84 K30 1 ton

I can't tell you right off hand what the readings should be for that reactor. I have one at home I could check for you, but it won't be for a few days...my schedule it too tight currently to be able to get to it. BUT, since it is basically nothing more than coils around an iron core, I would...

This is a great thread. Thanks for posting the links and information. I am curious though. How are you guys who have done this handling the e-brake? I plan on doing the disk brake conversion to the truck sometime down the road, but this is one thing I've been curious about.

You don't need to pull the glow plugs. If you are getting the required ohm reading between the spade and the engine block then they are good. If they were bad you wouldn't get any reading. All it is, is a resistive heating element. Yours are good. The stop solenoid could be sticking a...

Maybe you should have explained some of that in your original post, because your thread title leads people to believe you are dealing with an entirely intact generator. The responses you got were in thinking you had a complete generator. It seems to me (and I hope I'm wrong) that you were...

Wrench fest at my place....it'll cost me almost $50.00 in ATF just to get it over there. Plus I got's a concrete floor to work on :smile:

Maybe I'm mistaken, but you seem to be a bit confused as to how these sets operate. The Frequency (Hz) is controlled by the engine RPM. The whole theory of a 4 pole generator head is that is gives you 60 Hz at 1800 RPM's. NOW, you load ANY engine down and the RPM's drop. On a generator, the...

I hope the rest of the stuff I'll need will just be advice from here on out. I'm gonna take the transmission to a shop to get rebuilt probably the week after Thanksgiving. Then it's just a matter of getting the flex plate, TV cable and whatever set-up I'm going to use for the lock-up. Oh, and...

The knob should be about 3/4 to 1 inch OUT for a rough estimate of the proper speed. It sounds to me like your governor needs adjusted. That topic has been discussed at length as well. I don't know the exact pages of the TM right off hand, but the TM instructions are really easy to follow

Moved the thread for you. As cpf stated, order the parts for an 84, no matter what your your CUCV is. This has been gone over many times on the site

That's funny right there. ALTHOUGH.....if you ever get that 700R4 swap done, the drive up to Haspin wouldn't be too bad. I'm planning on having the road oiler back in operation by then...I hope :oops:

First welcome aboard. Secondly, yes, you did miss the answer as this has been gone over MANY MANY times in the forum. BUT, to cover it one more time. It's more than likely one of your safety switches shutting the set back off. It's either the oil pressure switch located right beside the oil...

1, I don't know if the software is capable of such a thing 2, There would need to be some discussion between the staff at to who we might trust to do it, and if they are willing to do so. But the idea of granting special temporary permissions to a member to move threads between those two...

Why are you not looking into the preheat circuit any deeper. The glow plugs are all wired in parallel, so all of them should be equally hot or close to it. Use a meter and check the resistance from the spade on the plug to ground, and make sure they are all good. It may be a couple of bad...

That's the whole problem with starting a new forum like that right in the middle of the road. I would love to do it, but I sure ain't got the time to read thousands of threads to make sure the right ones get ported over.

I vote for sometime in March or Late September!!!!

You still have a ground issue...the path of least resistance is still through the other bulbs rather than through the ground. There are a bunch of them to look at. One on each side of the radiator on the core support, one on the frame rail below the front battery, one inside the cab up beside...

You think she's impressed now....wait until you have it running and the rest of the neighborhood is as black as coal. Yet, you'll still be living life normally :smile:

No, I have not seen or heard of ANY failing. That's not to say it can't happen though. It's probably not the relief/regulator ball and spring if you aren't getting anything at all. For your sake I certainly hope it's just the oil pump and not the cam or something majorly wrong with it.

Were they bad or are you just replacing them for the sake of replacing them??