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Yes, add shims if too tight (and subtract if too loose.) Sounds right to me. Set it just to where you can feel no more end play at all. Measure only if you don't trust your feel. Avoid any bearing preload!

The -386 TMs only cover what is different to the A2-series. You can use RTV sealant, instead.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-209-34P.pdf . Fig. 127 shows the later (bushing)bearing style. And this is the early (tapered roller)bearing style, from the parts book ORD 9 SNL G-742 (Jan1955): Same size as the spindle nuts: 3", 8-sided.

(y)Case resolved, then - and I can sleep again!:giggle:

Ah... that's most probably the cause...! At least it proves that the newer jackshaft is capable of extending that much - without ripping off its slip-joint seal. If you refer to what bolts to the TC, those two styles are interchangeable and don't affect its position. See this thread, also...

Not the case. It would take much more than that to make our transmissions one inch shorter. Also, the pics in post #6 clearly show a transmission with all stock parts. So my question remains open, still: what exactly was changed in the later-generation A2s to require- or allow a longer...

OK, so it seems that that later-model propeller shaft does extend enough to solve the OP's problem. Really wondering now where that 1"-difference originates (?) Since both trucks should have the very same engine- and transfer case mounting brackets, at the same relative positions, respectively...

Those pics you posted show a typical Saginaw manual steering gear. I'm sure that's not what you want.

So do wheels with less backspace. Installing a HEMTT wheel would be like running a 2-1/2" spacer behind the original wheel.

Sure... but not at the same rpms! They say there is no substitute for one's own experience.... It only takes a couple of hours to replace a transmission in a Deuce, so go ahead and try it out. Oh, and leave the floor tunnel cover removed and all tools handy - because you might want to go...

Exactly. I have done it - and promptly switched back to the 3052... (Wow, just realised: that was 25 years ago! No SS and no TMs at that time...)

Not exactly...

6" (or 11" between flanges), fully collapsed. Extends about 1-1/8"

Not too common - but they do break in two even without doing stupid things... Post#6 seems to confirm it. Other threads about the same topic: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/anyone-have-a-fuel-pump-push-rod-break-in-half.130033/...

It seems that that number (of trucks) most often is wife-depending, or...? :giggle:

All you need to know about those bolts: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/complete-deuce-winch-mounting-bolt-list.64899/ Long bolts are listed there as being 11". If you want the exact length of the OEM bolts, they are here in this post...

No rope and no trick needed, since when the piston is all the way up it will hold the valve(s) in place, almost closed. Just spin the crank about one 3rd of a turn past the point where the intake valve of that cylinder has closed. That should be your TC, more or less. To confirm, use a lever...

Dimensions there are all the same, between models. Problem is you only have about 44" measured from the toolbox back to the 1st rear axle tire, if you are already running 395's. That means the toolbox needs to be modified/shortened to make enough room for a tire that's almost 46" in diameter...

I'd replace the spring and eventually do a compression test first, before going through all the work of pulling the head. (No big deal to replace a spring, with the piston at TDC. It's a one-man job and can be done with no special tools.) Yes, the valve may have touched the piston occasionally...