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Yes that's what I was looking for. Hopefully it can be refreshed, it would be a shame to lose it.

Warthog did a great job identifying all the relays, I remember that I saved it as a personal sticky but now I can't find it. I'm still searching.

Warrior the part # is listed in the'' doghead starter relay modification'' in a sticky in the cucv forum.

My M1008 came with one, right from GL. I think it was listed as an option.:grin:

Hmmmm, solid green?

If it was me I would go for a bed canvas, for camping and what not. I would have no use for a gun ring.

Eastern surplus, banner add at the top of the home page has several being parted out I recently saw listed.

I have marked Aug 6 &7 as first post stated. Hope to make it, I don't know if I'll take the M1008 or the wife, probably not both as she won't want to drive that far,60 miles.

We had a motor sgt. that shortened up the bows and took the top to a upholstery shop and had the sides turned up and sewn. After it was done it was the same height as the cab. It looked good and had less wind resistance = better fuel mileage. I remember hearing that they wanted to charge...

my M1008 is at about 12 and 24, change your vacume hoses and adj the vac valve if necessary.

Same here, read the entire thread and no answers, and he has not been on since July 2010, I was hoping for a conclusion.

According to the TM when diagnosing electricl problems always make sure the batteries are fully charged.

For a quick cheap fix get a 3/4 to 5/8 hose connector and connect the two heater hoses together. Cost about $1.00 and 10 min. time. Got mine at NAPA.

replaced the stabilizer and rotated the tires cured mine.

I had a cracked head, replaced it with a new one, had the other one checked and valves replaced or resurfaced as needed. Was about $500.00 with all the gaskets IIRC. I was able to run the engine prior to tearing it apart so I was confident the bottom was good. I would pass on it.

Check with Doghead.

The crossmember is in the proper place, the longer bolts allow some streach to the bolts to absorb torque. The proper sequench in the TM is , from the top, bolt, spacer, frame, crossmember, lock washer, nut.

I came up with Gm-10137486. After googling # I did find it listed as an injector pump gasket, but did not find a pic to verify. Hope this helps.

From EVERYTHING that I have read, do not use either unless you are d___ sure the the glow plugs have been disabled. I have used wd40 or a silicone spray twice.

Start at the trans modulator and replace all the rubber hoses up to the vac pump and vac valve, this should cure your shifting problems.