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Whiskey, Malt, and Indigestible products?

If the Zerk fittings could be inset in the links, they'd have a chance to survive. Not that it would be hard to make that happen, but I think that the factory left any lubrication points out of this area for a reason. Yes, I added a Zerk to the sleeve I made, but that wasn't to provide grease to...

I'll go out on a limb here and say that there are two ways. Two correct ways, that is. But if the goal is to get double the battery voltage, there's only one.

Man, I really am old fashioned. I'm typing this on a computer keyboard, use a camera to take photos with, and carry a flash light. But I do have a flip phone that I use as, well, a phone. Of course, I don't use adjustable wrenches either (other than as a last resort), instead relying on wrenches...

A K5 tank would be easier to fit, but as mentioned earlier, it sounds like you'll have to modify/swap a cross member or two. Other than that, I'd use factory hardware and sending unit. Firefox's suggestion of using a second side tank would be easier yet, using either an aftermarket or OE right...

Did you by any chance take a photo with that iPhone before disconnecting things? I'm pretty sure those newfangled cell phones can be used as cameras.

For a Suburban tank to fit, I think you need a longer frame, for starters. Not that I remember exactly how much longer a Suburban is behind the axle compared to a pickup, but about it's about four inches.

That's what a thought (that you used a Jeep), but did you connect it to one of your CUCV batteries or both? For now, why don't you look at your CUCV as a regular GM car/pickup/SUV with a gas engine of the era? There's not that much difference between them. Yes, the starter runs on 24 Volt, and...

A jeep would be 6 Volt. A Jeep would have 6 or 12 Volt, depending on model year. Not that it helps me understand what's really going on here.

Maybe the conclusion was that there was no appreciable increase in load carrying capability to be had? If there is an advantage to running duals other than to carry loads that can't be supported by single tires, I haven't heard about it yet.

Peakbagger, nothing to it. Okay, it did require patience. And advice from SS members. And some luck. And ordering a new pin, just so I wouldn't need it. But if I were you I would start the process now, by removing the sleeve. One large and one smaller chisel was all it took, once it was turned...

In 16 years, including much 'wheeling, I never managed to hit my head on the CB I mounted in that position. Radio went in the original spot in the dash.

Thanks, Tony. I could point out that the nut had to be dressed as it developed some sharp ridges from the impact. And that by dumb luck it sticks out exactly as much as the bucket is wide, which is one reason I left it on there. Installing the "new" narrow bucket wasn't as bad as I'd thought...

Done. And no more chance of moisture messing things up again.

Just out of curiosity, it seems like most of you want to retain the NP208 rather than going with a 205 or Atlas 'case. Other than cost, is there a good reason to keep the 208 that I have missed?

Which is one reason I installed ball valves instead. Now there's 60 psi in the system after 24 hours. EDIT: Make that 48 hours. And yes, that tank "clearance" looks painfully familiar. My next task is to get the tank out, completely, as the pickup tube must be at least partially at fault, based...

Yep, the sleeve came off, which was instrumental in getting the pin out (thanks you, Migginsbros), and it'll be replaced with a piece of tubing. With a Zerk fitting in it.

The thought of using rotational force rather than lateral wouldn't go away. Even eyeballed a 2-3/8" wrench when returning the borrowed puller, figuring that moving the wrench with the bucket's hydraulics might work. Nah, not about to risk damaging a borrowed wrench. Looked around for a...

Indeed, but I don't think I have a suitably sized bolt. Besides, I'd prefer to weld the end of the pin to the ID of a nut. Then, when my crappy weld breaks, I can weld on the backside, too.

That nut welding idea sounded good until I realized that I don't have a 2-3/8" impact socket. It would've been the perfect nut, too, fitting fine over the tapered end of the pin, and already sliced in half (needed to make a spacer for a gooseneck trailer ball). New pin not not, it would be easy...