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Got into the TM and cross-referenced the NSN's over to the Meritor part numbers and took those to a local brake shop - turns out the Meritor part numbers for the front end in "-16" and the rear "-12" which the guy immediately recognized as type 12 and type 16. Type 12 is a 5.5" diaphragm with a...

I've seen a few questions posted about replacement canisters - which are a bit difficult to find and expensive on the surplus side. I recently replaced the diaphragm's in all of mine and other than dealing with the paint on the clamp bolt threads it's an extremely easy process. On my 2008 A1R...

These trucks have issues with not keeping the 12v and 24v battery pairs evenly charged. It's best to rotate them front to back every few months. Best is to drive them regularly or at least keep the batteries on a maintainer. I would recommend a proper tester to keep an eye on them. This kind of...

The 3126b engine in the A1 has no throttle lever. Pedal is electronic.

These trans like to throw the C6 thrust bearing and plug up passages and filter screens also. I doubt the pump is worn out at 5k miles but a C6 failure is definitely possible. One of the benefits of the ECO hubs is dropping the transmission output speed by half for any given road speed. Less RPM...

Torque converter is not supposed unlock unless it is downshifting to 2. Doesn't sound like that's the case at 40 MPH...... If it downshifts and RPM climbs but you lose speed..... sounds like engine power is down or transmission is slipping in the lower gear. Has the transmission and filters...

The air inlet heater should be pulling it's power from the batteries. The alternator only needs to replenish the batteries. Have you tested the condition of your batteries? Disconnect each one and test it. Sounds to me like you have questionable batteries. or connections. Ground connections and...

Very nice! (y)

These engines run on straight explosions and anger. What would kill a gasoline engine (detonation) is exactly what the diesel engine exploits for it's operation. They are supremely strong on the bottom end and as long as you allow them to properly warm up before putting them under a huge load...

Looks like the 3126b is actually on the intake:

It's on the back of the cylinder head. If you lift the cab and sit on the valve cover facing backwards it would bite you in the junk if it was a snake. *edit* - C7 location. Water runs off the cab directly onto the C7 unit. 3126b is on the intake. *edit*

3116's don't have grid heaters.

Very typical. But these start WAY better than the HMMWV's - check out same guy's video on that mess: And if the glow plugs don't work (blown up from repeatedly cycling when someone left the switch on or controller failed - common) good luck. You might as well wait till summer comes.

It has to cope with an empty bottle so I wouldn't worry about it. Ether is just an alternate fuel source and the black smoke means it's got plenty of fuel - I wouldn't worry about it. There's no way to change the operating parameters that I'm aware of in software since having the grid heater...

If you would rather you could use something like this to control the grid heater and disconnect or manually control the ether: https://www.swaphelper.com/product-page/swaphelper-com-grid-heater-controller

All of the CTIS boxes are 24 VDC - indeed the M939 has only 24 VDC systems so I'm not sure what SUPPLIER 16V is in reference to exactly. Nothing important I would say. I have the software on my google drive because no one can seem to find the Dana download for it anymore. It's only 8 Mb...

Check the filters? Perhaps the fluid is too thick when cold and not flowing through clogged, collapsed, or damaged filter elements? I would get the 15w40 out of it and put in Dexron ATF. The military stopped using 15w40 in the FMTV's and the ATF shifts better.

Yeah doesn't look like there's any habitat suspension or articulation capability. Looks like any off-road would destroy the house in short order. Aux cooler would be better between the frame rails with fans that push air into the low pressure area under the truck (ground effect).

What did you for isolation between the box and frame? With the frame that long there's going to be some flex and you don't want to destroy the box.

It's pretty much the same as the power steering - suck all the fluid out of the pump, refill with proper fluid, exercise all parts of the system as much as you can and then rinse repeat till you have changed what you figure to be about 1/2 the capacity 4 times over, or about 2/3 of the capacity...