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problem is, your leaving 60% or more of the dirty fluid in the torque converter, cooler and lines, you only get 4 quarts from the pan….thats the reason for the flush, the black stuff is clutch plate.
looks good, I like the color, it’s identical to Factory H1 color “Mesa Dusk”
https://everestautomotivemarket.com/custom-mixed-paint/hummer/hummer-mesa-dusk-5228-c22/?variation_id=1159864
The 200amp kits were for v-belt trucks, not for A2 and above trucks, therefore they would not need to provide the
additional cable because the truck is running a 3 speed transmission
nothing really safer bout it…it’s just to big and in the way, be sure to inspect that the rear cooling fan guard is NOT in contact with the body harness exiting the footwell fire wall, severe chafing will severe several critical wires!such as front lighting harness, CPS and temp sender wires.
you got lucky, because it could be the bolts holding the generator bracket on that broke off in the head, yours is just
the bracket, ive done many While in the truck, it takes some skills, time and tools…easiest is to remove the generator and remove
the Gen/PS bracket.
note to all ECV owners...
DCP pumps are not just the worst rebuilders in the pump rebuilding business, they shouldn’t be in business period.
I have no less than 10 pumps sitting in my shop that can’t be used because they don’t know how to rebuild DB2 pumps.
Customer service doesn’t exist and a warranty claim will take...
Just PM me…seems you have violated some BS rule about asking a question that someone else was somehow forced to answer?
But woke them from their slumber perhaps…
ok, well….the rear evaporator fan won’t run till the compressor runs, the front will run regardless because it’s also the heater blower motor.
Run 24v direct to you blower motor to test it…
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