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Thanks for the help guys
but I'm still a little thick on why I need to have a ground rod in addition to the genset being grounded to the house service through the ground wire in the 6/4cord.
Ike
It is a excellent switch box but regardless I would never throw the switch while it was live, I've...
OK
One problem at a time
My hubbel line supply is 8ga
Panel wires are 10ga ( yes they should be heavier but have been in use for the last 21 years and look fine ) I've read that a switched neutral is nice to have so as to not have any possible feedback to the pole and zap a...
ok from what your describing then I leave my genset the way it is which ( as I understand it ) is to keep it with the ground/neutral tied together ( bonded ) and not seperate them. Now the ground is unbroken ( no switch ) allthe way into the panel(s) so why would I need to have another ground...
Previous owners put in a sub panel coming off the 400amp breaker box I have. The sub panel runs limited outlets/lights in the house including well pump and hot water heater, it was originally setup for 30amp hubbel I have since put in 50amp hubbel ( and heavier guage supply)
I missed last year but am definetly going this year, I already made res at the local Sleep Inn by the Don Garlits museum ( $65.00 night if you mention "MVPA"). Very good turn out and as mentioned gets bigger each year and its locate on the grounds of a huge covered flea market
Sleep Inn (352)...
OK
I read the posts and the link and I'm even more confused Sooo let me ask this
I have 4 wire (6/4soow) cord running to my house transfer switch which have seperate neutral & ground terminals/lugs ( whatever). Since I have 4 wires with one being ground do I (still ) need to isolate the...
Back out the center bolt that holds the blower to the shaft a few turns so that it not touching the blower then position the tapered puller shaft on the little counter drilled hole on the bolt ( its there for that purpose ) tighten up on the puller jacking bolt and then (as Spedmon said) tap the...
Heres my old/bad (shorted ) stator
Darn thing looked brand new, the ( used) stator I bought to replace it with looked so bad in comparison that when I went to reassemble I grabbed the old one and started putting it back on :doh:
Just in case your second (used) VR is bad too.
I also bought my NOS VR from Eriks Mil Surplus
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier (Battery Charging) For Onan MEP-002A / MEP-003A 5KW and 10KW Generator Sets, FVR4006
Its suppose to be white oak but I have seen quite a few that were red.
I did the troop seat on my old 37 with Epay wood, cheaper and as durable as white and as strong also a very good looking wood to which I could not bring myself to paint it
This is a excellent event
I still make the trip down from Ga to attend
11-12-13 FEB 2011 - The Southern Outpost Military Vehicle Winter Rally and Swap Meet - Sponsored by the First Florida Chapter, MVPA & The Market of Marion - Located 10 Miles South of Ocala, FL. at the Market of Marion...
.010 & .013 are wrong
These were the old settings that the mil superceded in 1951 ( Change order one) to .015 hot for both in /ex
I originally did my ( rebuilt ) 230 at the old settings and always had a flutter on the vac gauge ( thought it was the carb ) that dissappeared when I reset them both...
I've used Delo for years in my diesels ( cummins & Navistar) then recently switched to Rotela, My deuce gets the store brand 15w-40 diesel oil being as little miles as I put on it I'll be changing it do to age and not from milage put on it
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