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The balancers are waterproof typically most of the 24-12 converters are not. Pitting the 24-12 in the dash makes the wiring dead simple as that is where the 12 v goes anyway… only reason to put it in the box is if you are using a “balancer(output exactly 1/2 of input)…

There are actually 2 shafts, one inside the other. The inner shaft engages the P6 clutch under the rear cover plate. I believe the transfer case slides over that extension shaft, so must be unbolted from the front of the extension housing… i seem to recall a sneaky(hidden) bolt in there...

Well there was someone selling a “double alt” once upon a time, no support and not well built… it was basically 2 alternators connected end to end. I have seen one using a custom mount that used two common alternators side by side, which kinda shorts one of them for belt-pully contact area…...

The exploded diagrams in the parts manual(24P) might be of assistance here…

well every other truck has the PTO on the drivers side Along with all the other stuff… Not sure if the scavenger pump and its mount is symmetrical enough to be just flipped over the top(to maintain same direction of rotation). Then you would have to figure out how to plumb from the suction...

Don’t forget the double-tap…:)

That or he how needs new flexplates:O

look at page 7-28.4 in the 34-2 service manual(M1078_TM 9-2320-365-34-2). Either 12 or 6 flexplate bolts, accessed thru bottom cover or screw in plug on the front of the bell housing, depending on vehicle serial number...

have you removed the flexplate mount bolts(connects TC to flywheel)?

Cool!

Save your money and put in a straight 24v alt and use a 24-12 converter to feed the truck 12v loads. pulling the 12 out of the middle of the 24v on the alternator cuts its output by nearly 1/3 at full load, so a straight 24v 100A alt will actually deliver more than the dual volt “100A“...

Re-configuring my panel a bit to accommodate an A1 ex brake/warmup switch. Also decided to add a direct 4X4 switch. This switch is a 4x4 sw out of a case-International Harvester tractor(same config as the OEM panel switches). I am going to add a small lamp test pushbutton under the idiot panel...

Or it could be an alt or regulator fault driving full field at random… gotta rule out all the connections/basics first though…

What general said. This sounds like it could be a bad connection back to the batteries. Or as suggested a bad ground. Alternator and battery work as a team. You drop your battery load and the alternator can surge in voltage before the regulator can reign it back in. your comment about it...

That's why i asked how you were planning on charging the battery. with a 24-12 converter that would work, but what is the point? You have 24v and the converter provides the 12, what would the added battery do for you?

How are you going to charge the extra battery? You either have enough power available from a 24-12 converter to run the lights or you don’t. A battery in the middle of that circuit isn’t going to really do anything for you except cause charging issues as your 24-12 converter needs to be...

Well if it keeps me from digging a hole and having to get out and rig a line and winch, I like it. I may add one to the rear at some point. If you don't mind saying, what did that little gem set you back?

TL99 would be +12V connected where the jumper cable that connects the two batteries in series(either terminal at the ends of the jumper cable, doesn't matter). IE: at either the 0-12v battery + terminal or 12-24V battery - terminal where the jumper is attached. Ground is connected to the 0-12V...

Mmmm locker mmmmm...

well you made it relatively easy. TL10 is +24v to the starter solenoid. TL39 is +24 to the polarity protection box 24v batt terminal of the 2 remaining cables. one is the main ground cable(TL48) going to the front of the starter motor via an instrument shunt(measures current) located near the...