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So on Saturday drove over to a friend's house to help put soft tops on the 2 M1123s he just received after many months of waiting. I found it interesting that they both had the MAK uparmor data plate on them, but they had 2 different sets of springs in them. One had the welded rear perches...

So for some reason, even with a battery disconnect, my batteries were dead this morning (after sitting almost 2 weeks, voltage under 4.5V each battery) I figured I'd post a picture of how I set up the 12V jump boxes, as some people are more visual in their learning (and words can be confusing)...

I agree with Action. When I was looking at my own fan issues, it was easy to tell when the fan was engaged vs just spinning. When engaged, if you rev the engine and there is any loose debris on the ground nearby under the truck, it will get blown away/moved by the air from the fan. The fan...

If the ground harness seems to fix the issue for you, that means you really need to go through the truck and clean up all your ground points. It's there to help, not replace, the original ground connections.

2 or 6 micron should both be finer filtration than what was there before. These things practically sip fuel compared to what these filters would normally go on, so I see no reason not to go with the 2 micron if everything else is the same.

Not trying to be rude here, so please don't take this in a bad way, but let me get this straight. You bought the A3 version of the trailer which costs more because it has a wider bed, wider axle, Now your plans have changed so you want to modify it further than originally intended. Your goal...

Progressive commercial policy, liability only. Value is what I told them it was worth. No claims so can't say how that would go.

No worries, you never can tell sometimes and I've dealt with more than one piece of equipment in my time where the issue lay in something that got added into the system in an odd location but nobody bothered to mention it was there.

Not to sound rude, but just a note for anyone else that reads this thread and has similar stating issues. Gamble, I didn't see anywhere before this in this thread where you mentioned that you had a security device installed in the electrical system. When troubleshooting any type of electrical...

So decided to finish this up last night. got the runflat back into the original tire, and everything back together. Stupid thing wouldn't hold air, was leaking air past the rear bead. Took it apart, inspected everything, made sure everything was clean, and reassembled. Put air into it again, and...

Actually, disconnecting one set of coils on each phase is exactly what I did. Then with it running and putting out heat it's still maxed out and will trip after a couple minutes, so I turn the voltage adjustment down until the gauge reads 110% load. I didn't use it myself that night, but my...

it's even more fun when you pull the runflat from one tire, but it into another and assemble it, only find the cracks/dryrot after inflating it, so you pull the runflat out of that one and put it into yet another, then fully assemble it, and have the same thing happen. I still haven't gotten...

Went for a walk through the woods today. Saw a shiny tag about head high in a bush, a few feet off the trail. 12338316-6 front spring for the M1114. I guess that is what they put on my M1123 when they added armor, otherwise I have no idea where it would have come from. I was just surprised to...

I know the feeling. While I don't run my 802 like you do your 804, I do love having it around.

I've greased mine multiple times. Using a pistol grip gun is much easier than a lever action gun as it allows you to hold the tip in place to start. Flex hose is also necessary to get in on the steering shaft U-joints and other tight places. Lincoln 1134 with flex hose coupler (the one on...

I didn't have an issue with a standard grease gun and flexible hose. I do know some guys that would love an extra skinny grease gun tip to do the intermediate shaft on their 900 series 5 ton though.

This is the version I used. As you can see a little different, but more strength for that portion.

I ran my top for half a year without the latches, but mine was the mid height top so a little stiffer overall. it shouldn't take much movement to hold it down, so you're mostly going for strength of the latch, if that makes sense. But any type of latch should work. I suppose they just went...

in the irrigation section of the hardware store they sell 20 mil PVC tape. I've been using it as a barrier for all my projects where there are dissimilar metals. https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-50-ft-20-Mil-Pipe-Wrap-Tape-53550/100179778

it's a heavy beast of a trailer, so just take your time getting to know how it handles. Also verify your trailer brake controller is compatible with electric over hydraulic, as not all brake controllers are.