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Cool, you got it with a regular wrench it looked pretty tight. Mine is all exposed now. Looks like you have a workable plan!

No, I havn't taken mine off yet. One thing I do recall from the last time the thought crossed my pea brain is that the wobble cap on top of the vent is not very tall, so it may take a special wrench to reach in under the edge of the cap to unscrew it from the casing…

So that big solenoid was going click but it wouldn’t crank Untill you shorted across its big terminals? As mentioned, not a fancy part, anyplace that has truck parts around you should have one of these on the shelf…

Probably not. The button lights switch is a powered electronic control device that consumes power so requires a return/ground path for its operating current to flow thru. The 3 lever is simply electrical contacts, so no ground required…

A0 lighting ckt. Basically the same throughout the versions, with the exception of the brake ckt. On the A0 the pedal pressure switches provide a ground, in the A1s they changed to the switches providing DC power…

The A0 comp gets its air pre turbo so no added boost. The 150PSI relief on the dryer should be fine.

In the case of the ground for the aux relay look in the wire bundle adjacent to the starter. They put in a plug on that ground lead to connect to a thermal sw in the forward end of the starter motor. Stops cranking when motor overheats… If you have one it will be plugged into a receptical on...

The oil returns thru its connection to the timing case where he drive gear is located. All compressors, like engines pass a certain amount of oil, a clogged intake/kinked hose can make this worse by deepening the vacuum during the intake stroke. What are you considering "oil contamination"...

Was this the pic you are referring to?

Disconnect the 2 small terminals at the aux start solenoid. One wire should have a short circuit/low resistance path to ground. The other wire should have 24V from K1 pin 87 when K1 energizes…

give us a shout when you get out to Olympic National Park in WA👍

Only seeing 1.8 v 30-87 but seeing 24v30-gnd at K1 does indicate a poor path to gnd thru the aux start relay on the frame…

Yep, plugging them in and out is fine and a valid coil function test. if k1 is energizing, beyond testing its contacts, all the rest of the in cab start circuitry is probably OK. You could rule out its contacts with a test jumper pin 30-87, which should crank the starter… K1 sends 24v down to...

I will have to look for it when I get home. the one where I am holding the connector with the arrows to the pins? And What General said about the sound under the dash at shutdown, fan control solenoid...

Ok, for a 98 with WTEC 3, when you turn on the ign sw, K11, K24 and K26 in the panel must energize. K11 and 24 are controlled by the oil pressure sw, so you must also get an oil idiot light. K26 is the neutral start relay controlled by the trans controller. K24 and K26 provide the path for...

Yep, the display does blackout:) i seem to recall helping with a problem like this…

Thats exactly what they did. The A0 specced 4 different type relays, 12-24, 4 or 5 pin. Using the resistors on the 24v control circuits they can spec one type relay 12v 5 pin…

Or crap in the fuel supply system pumped into the tank…

Almost looks like the bend angle is the worst/aligned with the fore axis when the cab is raised. what does the angle look like when the cab is lowered. there is a good view with the grill removed when lowered. yea the long slot is to allow cab suspension travel, but the control should be in...

yes it does...