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The Delco 28MT is the premium starter for this engine. It's available in both 12 and 24v models.

Honestly, the 6.2 heads will have cracks and the shop will want to repair them. The cracks are usually superficial. But, I have noticed that the fire rings wear into the cylinder block and a head gasket replacement will snowball into a full teardown. These head gaskets don't have any elastomer...

Just grind the heads off the bolts. The won't be tight anymore and you can unscrew the remains with pliers once the manifold is removed.

The only thing anywhere near the bottom of the pan is the oil pump pickup. There is not much to get damaged down there. It is wise to replace the pan or at least hammer the dent out as the dent can block the oil pickup. When you replace the pan, buy the gasket kit for the rear seal but toss the...

Do give us details. What was wrong about the pump?

I have the same tool. It definitely takes some talent to use effectively. You must be able to rule out metric sizes. Metric isn't that common in valves and such but I suggest a good caliper to take measurements.

The white ring is simply a backup ring. It prevents extrusion of the o-ring under pressure. They follow the same size format as the o-ring. You can cross reference the Cat part number to get the dash size of the o-ring. McMaster-Carr Page: https://www.mcmaster.com/backup-rings If this...

Revs up and trips immediately? That sounds like the speed setting is too high. In the above picture, it's the blue "freq" potentiometer on the left.

I don't have specific knowledge or this engine but I never mark timing components when disassembling. I always follow the factory timing procedure during reassembly.

They're mostly still available. These aren't solvent based or have flash points over 140F so they aren't controlled under the VOC rules. The Big Orange is orange based and cost is highly dependent on winter temps. The price goes up if there is a winter freeze. I have noticed a lack of caustic...

That is a caustic cleaner so take caution with paint as I mentioned.

The rock crawlers mate up a NP205 and 203 transfer case for their low ratios. Kind of a long setup, though.

Does anybody have a Safety Data Sheet for this lube? That could also help identify alternatives. Dow Corning Molykote 111 is my go to rubber lube for long term applications. There are better products but this one hits a nice price point at about $40 for a grease gun tube.

So this is either a dry film lube or one that is not water based as that would evaporate in short time.

What is the consistency? I know of many tire lubes that range in consistency from watery to gelatinous, all water based. What is it that you want the lube to do?

Here are my stock shells with 3.1152 inserts. None of the bolts are tight. This is on a bare block while I do some clearencing.

Caustic degreasers work great but I have noticed that they remove frame paint that has had oil/grease sitting on it for a long time. Zep Big Orange is a powerful degreaser that I have found to be safe for paint. Simple Green etches paint. A solvent gun can be useful.

When you assemble the clamshells do you have to squish them down over the rubber? I think the 3.1152 number is slightly thicker. That puts a bit more pre-load on the mount.

It was a few years back, I don't remember exactly what the problem was. The aftermarket brass radiator pooled water at the sensor so it wouldn't come on if water was low if I remember correctly. Or maybe it was the opposite. Oh well, that radiator rotted out after 2 years of California weather...

Is the radiator aftermarket? They don't work well with the low coolant sensors.