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Counter clockwise. touch the tube to the metering pump's right side.

Here are my thoughts: In the past we had determined there is a mistake in the TM where is calls the "X" dimension 2.02", that is an error. X should be 2.20", however, experience has shown me that when working on a motor with unknown pump shim requirements, putting 2 black shims under the pump...

You "saw a few on GovPlanet go for $3K" , Yea and all the rest went for MORE! I've seen non-runners go for $5k and more. Even for the "Double" price you paid you couldn't find anything remotely close these days. Take your time, go through it fully and get it fixed. It will be the best $800 you...

Your oil level rising is a sure sign that you are leaking fuel into the crankcase, but other than damage or a crack near the fuel inlet, I don't know how you would be getting that fuel on the outside of the block. I believe you are correct as far as the tolerances being the only "seal"...

Yea, been away for a few weeks... Business trip to Israel then home for a week then family vacation in VA and TN. Israel was interesting.... got to do a little sight seeing in between the 2 terrorist shootings that were a stones throw down the street from our hotel! Made it home ( eventually ) ...

Way too many possibilities without digging into it. Could be anything from something inside the generator ( even as small as a dropped fastener ) to a broken crank , rod or something inside a cylinder. Since you don't know much about the machine I think you should begin by removing the head to...

Hi John, Sorry for the delay, I was away on vacation and for once... decided to avoid my computer while I was gone. Here's the picture you were talking about for everyone else. With the engine set with "PC" at the pointer on the flywheel, this is what you should see through the IP opening. The...

Simplest thing to do when your filler extension screen is gummed up solid is just burn off the gummy coating. Pull the extension up and out, hit the screen with a propane torch, let cool and brush or blow off the remaining ash. Put back in service!

Wow, PR has had a rough few years with storms and massive grid and repeated station damages, now fire!

I think you are fine. the tank is plated ( barely ) so you will see some discolorations from the zinc, as long as it is clean, dry and no loose rust you will be fine. I always etched them with metal prep or phosphoric acid. The center of the tank has a wall across it anyway so you can't access...

It sounds like you are possibly starting up on 1 cylinder, then the 2nd one kicks in a few seconds later. Try loosening the injector line off one of the metering pumps and try starting it. Then tighten it back up and do the same with the other metering pump. If it starts with 1 loose but then...

Sounds like you are in pretty good shape. One thing you can also check just for more knowledge is to measure the top of the piston Dia. as well. No idea on the DN4M pistons, but many other pistons have a slight taper to the piston, smaller on top, larger at the skirt, only by a few thousands...

Took me a second to figure that one out.... Guess the stencil guy was even slower than me!

Wow, maybe that was their first Proto-A development sample.... Someone had trouble reading the little metal stamps apparently...;)

When you refer to C-Clips on the liquid level sender I believe you are talking about the J-shaped dual float assembly for the aux fuel pump and no fuel light, not the fuel gage sender. The clips are in grooves and just keep the floats within their operational area, no adjustment can be made on...

Metering pump nipple ( fuel inlet hose ) touching the pushrod tube is normally the correct positioning. Apparently moving them too far clockwise causes all sorts of issues in addition to incorrect fuel delivery and trouble shutting down!

It probably would be a good idea to pull the manifold and / or the heaters to verify none of them melted and dropped any fragments in the manifold. I think I would start by looking at the K18 solenoid, my money says it got stuck in the on position. I believe the K18 is energized when cranking...

On the injectors you can remove them, open them up and clean or replace the nozzles and pintles but that's about it. The pressure is adjusted using tiny shims under the springs and you need a pop tester, so not the easiest job. To disassemble just unscrew the 12pt. cap on the end. Keep track of...

I agree, verify barb distance from push rod tubes is about equal first. When taking the temps it is very difficult to get accurate measurements because the fan tends to cool the front of the engine much faster than the back cylinder, which is also what your temp readings are showing. Try...

I've towed many of them long distances with no issues, but I would still suggest bringing your tilt trailer, just to be safe. If you decide to flat tow, also be aware that depending on your hitch set-up, the safety chains will probably come up a few inches short of reaching, so bring a chain...