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At the top of the deuce main forum in the stickies look for a thread called peter bog's cad deuce schematic. Then go to page 9 post #3. Download the PDF and you will have an excellent wiring diagram. You should be able to trace where the wires connect if your number tags are still intact.

Look in the stickies for the cad wiring diagram. That has saved me more than once.

As G said in this case the worst that's going to happen is the wheel leaks air. I take the safety of myself and those around me very seriously. My wheel center is not what is cracked and a chunk of the wheel isn't going to break off. It will leak air long before a catastrophic failure happened.

I appreciate the concern fellas but this was a small crack repaired in the factory weld. If this would have been in the wheel center then I would have scrapped the wheel. The crack was grooved out and welded by a professional welder. Again there are businesses that specialize in welding...

Use gl-5 gear oil for hypoid gears in the axles and sae 40 non-detergent motor oil in transmission and transfer case.

Well $35 and 20 min with my angle die grinder I'm good to go.

I saw some on a popular auction site. Can't remember if they had the part # listed. If you can try removing the seal and taking it to a bearing warehouse and see if they can match it.

I just spit my drink.

Did you repack the inside of the spindle with grease? By that I mean where the shaft goes through the spindle. Also on either side of the u-joint there are thrust surfaces that need grease. Also your brakes could be adjusted a bit far out. That will get hot real fast.

My Chevy c-6500 has full disk brakes all the way around. It tips the scales at about 23,000 pounds and stops like my half ton Chevy. As long as the system is designed for that kind of weight disks work excellent.

Yup strait weight 40 non detergent is the way to go. With maybe a touch of Lucas oil additive. I was turned onto the 40 weight by m35-tom. He was correct that my truck now shifts better and the drive train whine is a bit less. The old oil I drained out was as thick as honey......not really...

Post up some pictures when you get the chance. You may can just weld up the crack/hole.

As far as tires put 395's on the a3 wheels. Way easier than finding 14.5x20's.

Keep an eye out and ask around. They aren't rare enough to pay surplus dealer prices. I picked up 7 for $200 a piece. Not the best price I have heard of but better than what most ask for them.

Ditto. That's exactly what I'm doing.

Gimp, that just for simplicity or does that give you better/even shoe wear?

Well as I said before I'm going with 395's on a3 wheels very soon. I'm doing this for many more reasons than just the difficulty of finding a tire shop to work on 9.00x20s. I'll be mounting up, or at least attempting to, 7 of those heavy tires so I will definitely get my work out then.

Pull the rubber boot back on the MC and check for fluid. Also never take the previous owners word as gospel truth. But if I had to guess your problem is say either a bad wheel cylinder or your air pack is shot. As others have mentioned pull all of your brake drums off and inspect everything...

Well that could be my problem. However when they walk out to my truck and look in the bed, look at the wheels, and still say no I really don't know what else to do. I had a rig mounted on an old ford f-600 with the same tire size and rim type and I had **** finding a shop to work on those...

I did go to a commercial tire store. Several actually. Only one even considered messing with them but, That was only if I bought a new tire. I just needed 2 tubes replaced. Honestly its just getting me going on switching to 395's.