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With just propane/MAPP gas, you're not going to be able to heat it up enough to damage it unless you really screw up. Just too much mass. Just aim the torch at it for a while until it's somewhat hot, then spray more oil on it (some people prefer to use wax instead). The cooling action of the...

Thank you. I'm not having any issues with the front springs right now that I can tell, since all the added weight is in the rear of the truck, but I will definitely keep this in mind in case I do need to increase the front spring strength/height

Are there multiple cast mounts for these? It appears the ones in the rear are already the cast style.

As my truck sits right now it's just over 9k lbs. I keep some gear in the truck all the time (5 fuel cans, 3-5 water cans, tire chains cut down from semi chains with extra cross links) that are part of that, so if I had to guess the BEOD itself is in the 2k-2500lb range. All the weight is in...

So everyone complains about how stiff these springs are, and with an empty truck I'll agree they are pretty stiff. I'm sort of having the opposite issue right now, my rear end is sagging compared to the front due to the amount of weight I have in it. With the BEOD (Body, Explosive Ordnance...

for the red dot you want at least the 100 amp, so going to the 200 amp would be a pretty good idea. If you weren't doing the red dot, then getting your current gen rebuilt shouldn't be that hard or expensive. Heck, even if you do upgrade it's not a bad idea to get the 60 amp rebuilt as an...

I really wish I had had those pictures with the measurements before I started cutting and drilling on mine. There is at least one extra hole drilled in the top rear of mine than I actually needed (but I think that was due to the incorrect bracket I received at first) Do you have the...

To go along with the above, if it isn't a sealed pot then using a product like this one can help with cleaning and deoxidizing the contacts if that is the issue https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

no, I don't have any type of template for this unfortunately, it would have made life easier. I mostly went by the pictures on this page: http://galuba.org/hummer/index.php?spgmGal=AC&spgmPic=60&spgmFilters=#pic Hopefully someone with better info can chime in. How I finally decided to start...

So plugging the NSN for the thread sealant into PARTTARGET brought up a bunch of manufacturer part numbers, including Loctite 27121. Apparently it's the 271 but specifically the 10ml bottle with extra words for the specs on the label.

Co going through the procedures in the TM, it calls for thread sealant. The specs on it are MIL-S-46163 Type I Grade K, which in a search comes up with a specific brand that holds that certification. Applications/properties shows it has high strength permanent threadlocker. I'd order the...

Yeah, reading through the TM it talks about the old and new configurations, so I'm really hoping mine (2000 M1123) has the new configuration. As much fun as it would be to pull it out and check the internals, the weather here isn't likely to be that cooperative and I've already taken over all...

So I know this is an older thread, but I have a related question. Looking at replacing my front diff output seal (looks like it's leaking a little, I saw oil inside the brake rotor vents) and the -20 says to disconnect/remove the brake line from the caliper. In this thread when removing the...

Yeah, while I was doing my crawl under in the dark parking lot I also found one of my halfshaft boots leaking (different location) so I have a set of boots coming as well (12k axles ain't cheap). I'm a little tight on money at the moment, so only have 2 of the bluehummer locking halfshaft bolt...

*sigh* As usual, the fun never ends. Went to hang out with some random people in another town, mostly because it was a block away from a store I like in that area. 75 miles from home. Nice night, clear weather but a little chilly. As I pulled into the parking lot I thought I heard a funny sound...

The high prices I quoted are mostly because of all the little things that you have to do along with it. A Duramax or Cummins engine, used, to go into an HMMWV can be purchased for $5-10k, depending on miles/condition. The rest of the cost is labor to do the conversion (which can be substantial)...

plus shipping brings it over $500. A lot more than I would want to spend without it being a necessity.

This sounds like you are doing it without reinstalling the runflats. For cg25713, if you are reusing/reinstalling the military runflat/beadlock there will be no seating the bead issues, as the bead lock design securely seats the bead of the tire against the rim when properly installed. I...

The biggest downside is you're looking at the cost of something like a duramax conversion to do this conversion as well. Is it really worth putting a $40-50k or more conversion in a $10k truck, that would maybe be worth $20-30k when everything is complete? (No idea if this is how the pricing...

An electric motor develops peak torque at stall. A chemical fuel powered engine doesn't develop torque until it's spinning at a high enough speed to efficiently intake air/fuel and compress it, then explode it. Basically the difference is for the electric motor you'll have your power highest...