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The one on the back of the TC is the rear transfer case seal, usually not a big problem to replace. The one on the rear of the engine could be a rear engine seal as it does not look red, but it could be simply oily water or even diesel from the engine valley. pull the dog house and inspect the...

The only problem I see with that is if you don't get them tight enough you will eventually work the threads out of the seat back

I made a trip in the DuraVee to Texas Humvee's shop in Mico TX Friday to help with some electrical troubleshooting on a M1151A1. I decided as I hit the road at 3:45AM to take the scenic route up Hwy 181 instead of the boring ride up I37, I did think to myself that I would be taking a somewhat...

Common wisdom says yes but they look about the same to me construction wise, only the 242 has a slip yoke output.

No the -80 transmissions have the same output splines (including the 6L80), you can put a 242 behind the 3L80, in fact I think all A1s and R1s have 242s there is a different output shaft (TC output shaft) on the 242s they used behind the 4L80 IIRC they never put a 4L80 behind the 6.2L but I...

Even cheaper. https://www.ebay.com/itm/176084303373

Free shipping too!!

Yes.

Actually it looks like you can remove the switch by simply unplugging the two connectors and just plug the connector from the TDM into the connector for the Cadillac valve.

The way the switch is wired the switch is closed, this should give you normal fan operation, if you pull the handle out you should be able to switch it, unless it is stuck, the switch is a SPDT (single pole, double throw) so it can be wired on or off with the handle down.

It looks like someone wired the switch to manually control the fan clutch, yes you can remove it but if it will enable (override) that automatic control some would think that is a plus.

it is exposed to the came chain oil

Welcome to the SS forums!!

Diesel is pretty stable so keeping it "fresh" is not an issue, most do use a fuel lubricant additive because the ultra low sulfur diesel does not lubricate the Stanadyne IP as well as it was originally designed for the diesel with sulfur. I use the Stanadyne "lubricity" additive because they...

In any case drive yours a while before trying to change things, it is possible you have the old style and it actually has an issue, if you have the new style when you fill the tank slowly with the run switch on you will see it advance about 1/4 tank at a time.

I have no idea, the reed switch type should be much more dependable, especially for vehicles that site for extended periods of time, the "variable resistor" tends to varnish over when sitting, or maybe the variable resistor type does not like kerosene based fuels (JP) There are companies that...

You have the more "modern" sending unit, I am not sure you can still get the old style as NOS. EDIT, except some universal crap I see out there.

It is possible you have the late style sending unit, it only has 4-5 possible readings, (not continuous like the resistor style sending unit) it is a magnet that floats up and down a tube closing reed switches so it will "jump" about a 1/4 tank at a time, normal for that kind of sending unit...

Pulling a vacuum on the filter would not affect the sending unit, if you don't have many miles on a truck that has been sitting awhile I would drive it some before condemning the sending unit, it could be quite normal for your truck, I have the new style fuel sending unit and it was on empty...

The center mount turbo engine uses different heads than the NA, the NA intake will not bolt up, would be easier to just do a turbo install.