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I've occasionally used a suicide jack to move a trailer tongue a little bit if needed, but only if the trailer jack was nice and sturdy and wouldn't have issues if it got a little side load on it. Use it pushing at a 45 degree angle instead of straight up, and it either slides the bottom of the...
I meant overall size. With a rubber tire if something makes contact, you get a little rubber friction. If a tire chain makes contact, you can have some serious damage.
IROK makes a 39.5" tire that fits a stock HMMWV as long as the springs aren't sagging.
As far as I know that's the biggest. Only caveat is with that tire size you can no longer run tire chains.
(the military tire chains add about 1" to each side of the tire, so on a 37" tire that makes it...
Not specifically a military vehicle event, but I've been talking in out local group, and sounds like we'll have at least a few of our rigs at the event, so thought I'd share here, and if there is interest we can increase the size of our military encampment.
I know I'll be there with my HMMWV...
Provided the dual voltage generator has the 14V output wired to the rear battery, that is where I would wire it.
Reason being, the battery is the most stable output of power. It acts as a buffer to any fluctuations in the output, and it's where the power will come from when the vehicle is off.
positive wire to positive terminal of the rear battery, wired through an appropriately sized fuse.
Negative wire goes to negative of the same battery, or straight to ground if you prefer.
the fuse IS important, as it's what protects you from burning down the truck if a short circuit appears...
to me this looks like the Trailer Chassis ( as the nomenclature in the parts manual calls it) or Light Tactical Trailer chassis (same as the M1101/M1102 as I mentioned previously). The HMMWV towable trailer.
I think that is more likely to be a pair of 802 5KW gens than the 803 10KW, because the...
The 103/105 trailers (I believe they are the same chassis, just different body on them) are larger trailers for towing behind an air brake equipped truck, and not the best choice if you don't have a big air brake truck to tow them. They are also pretty massive overkill, and weigh about 2700 lbs...
as a short term warm weather battery they will probably do okay. They definitely won't last as long as a quality AGM battery, but as you said, it's a budget option, and I'd only use them if nothing better was available.
In cold weather the output of the battery goes down and the cranking...
all I know is if you unplug the oil sending unit with it running, the gauge pegs out to max.
In one of the threads I looked at, RWH said he's never seen an internal oil pressure issue when the gauges start reading funny, it's always in the sender/gauge/wiring. I haven't been too concerned...
kind of a toss up between using an electric over hydraulic controller over replacing the axle.
Replacing the axle lets you switch the bolt pattern to something else pretty easily (you're kind of forced to) and then you can match the tires to the tow vehicle. It also lowers the weight a little...
Finally got around to investigating this. Only seems to happen when the engine is hot.
Wires at the gauge are good.
Pulled the doghouse cover, and I can see oil coming out of the shell connector on the oil sending unit.
Have a new one on order. I'm just glad it was something simple and obvious.
ALL M1123 are 3rd gen trucks, so same as the M998A2 trucks.
All trucks of a specific series will be the same basic series, with only differences being like the pre-196900 vs post 196900 serial number engines, or the pre/post 300,000 serial number REV trucks.
Yes, as Trailboss said, that is a slide hammer for driving/removing ground rods. MUCH safer and easier than using a sledge hammer (especially if you were the guy told to hold the ground rod while someone else swung the hammer)
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