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Correct, you have them in the right order. Be careful not to drop or loose the dished cups on the top of them, they are just sitting there.... not attached at all. The power piston is currently all the way in, so you could safely grab it with a pair of curved jaw pliers, twist and pull ( after...

In the last picture, left is the Passive one, right is the active power piston. Left has a spring inside, right may not because it operated using hydraulic pressure created by the pump to pus outward on that ball stud to advance the timing as RPM increases.

Out of curiosity is it the "Idler" ( forget what the TM calls the passive one ) side that's stuck, or the power piston / active side? I believe the internal components are slightly different. Sounds like you are finding all sorts of issues! Something tells me the pistons will be stuck in the...

A5 is inside the special relay box correct? I have an 005 here ( that I promised Guy I would measure A5 eventually ) But would need to take a little time to open up the relay box, so I can do it.... just not right away, if anyone else has faster access?? Otherwise I will do it when possible.

For now I would leave the fuel inlet screen as an assembly. I don't think the kit comes with anything other than new o-rings, so just clean it out with spray carb clean and don't disassemble any further just yet, wait until you have the kit. It has a check valve inside it, so make sure it is...

And if the linkage is binding up and holding the metering valve in the closed position you will never get any fuel from it either.

Yea, all those little particles are not helping anything... clean it up, then disassemble. Once you get down to the final part... the pump head and the 2 little piston plungers, if the plungers are stuck in the head, that is the #1 cause of not getting any fuel out of the pump.

For $500 BUY IT! Others have already explained why.... even if you can't fix it for some reason, it's worth way more in parts than that!

A small draw and spark is normal. I believe it's caused by capacitors on the voltage regulator board. The draw should not be continual and should not drain the batteries, it's just a small momentary charge to the capacitors.

Yet another TM ambiguous mistake?? The way I have always done it is set the motor as you did, at 20* Verify marks in the IP window are aligned. Remove the pump. Do not touch or rotate the engine! Rebuild the pump and align the marks when finished rebuilding. Reinstall the IP with the IP marks...

You are in the right spot. Whenever the timing marks in the IP window are aligned you are at the correct spot, not 180* off. The IP turns 1/2 the speed of the motor so you can only be off 180* by looking at the timing mark on the motor only ( in which case the IP marks would be 180* off. With...

Hi Kurt, The hole pattern on the 002/003 A4 card is 2.660" wide and 2.600 high... not quite a square pattern. The board itself is 3.5" wide and 3.0" high.

On the IP, no other tools needed in my opinion unless you happen to have tamper resistant Penta screws in the top cover or rear pump cover. Since you already had the top off, we know you are good there, but I once had an 005 with tamper resistant Penta ( 5 sided instead of 6 like a hex key )...

You can go with the bushing kit, just in case, but I have never needed to replace the bushing. When doing the rebuild pay very close attention to how things come apart because your pump spins the opposite direction of 95% of the other DB pump applications, so the transfer pump eccentric, the...

Go on youtube and watch a video called "Be the Fuel" Its a great explanation of how these pumps operate.

You want a 24371 rebuild kit and a 29111 weight basket. Warning, the new weight basket does not have a timing mark cut into it, you need to cut or file the mark yourself, using the old basket ring as a guide. Your pump is neither a DB2 nor a DB4. They are simply another one of the many...

The shutdown solenoid presses against the linkage shown in the left side of your photo. That moves the linkage towards the fuel inlet end of the IP, in turn rotating the fuel metering rod and shutting off fuel flow. With the cover removed, if you manually move the fuel shut off lever ( which is...

Are you missing the gage or is yours broken? If its broken, can you read the writing on the face and tell me what the FS current is? ( curious if the gage from a different set would also work, since 002/003 and 802/803 are both the same functionally, I bet the 804 05 and 06 are as well.

Out of curiosity, is your Hz select switch missing? Looks like the alternator fuse is missing as well.

Am I seeing black magic marker on the connectors on the S1 switch? If so, that's an indication that someone has messed with S1 before. might want to verify the correct connections as well as tight screws on all the connections. Test the diodes on the switch jumpers as well.