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The gaskets I just took off were the multi piece type. There are only holes in the gasket for oil and coolant passages. The new style, one piece gaskets are like a Fel Pro head gasket for a BB Chevy..only blackish, not blue. They have a perma seal strip around the push tube cavities and grommets...

I think so. The military wrench is aflexy flier. When I torqued up with the one I made, it was a very firm feeling at the end of the wrench. I'd use a good homemade one over the military version any day. I wonder if Saturn will give me a credit?

Well, I checked the flatness with a straight edge made for checking for head warp..borrowed it from work. They were fine, couldn't get a .001 feeler gauge under it at any spot on the head. The heads alone are kind of heavy, maybe 80 lbs and I couldn't imagine trying to take all of the exhaust...

Oh, BTW, that was with a stubby Snap-On 3/8 ratchet!

That's my helper, Jake. "Hey dad, how tight should this be....POP!" He pulled the t-bolt threads apart on one of the turbo hose clamps... the nut wasn't hard going on, just brute strength! He'll learn.

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Did the head gaskets today. It was a relativley simple task. The hardest part was the R&R of the intake/exhaust. Hand jivin' that took forever! The cylinders have a little bit of polish, but there is still a crosshatch visible. The Saturn Surplus head nut wrench sucked...see Head Nut Wrench...

Nah, don't waste your $ or time. The Saturn wrench took the nuts off, sure flexed alot. Got to the 100 ft lb torque going together, PINK! Broke that sob right thru the weld. Yes, I used it right, 90 deg. to the wrench.

I see them on e-bay every once in a while.

FT, I don't think that's possible. You can put a check valve in the system so the pressure builds steady and the air won't be pushed back into the compressor discharge, but if you put a check valve in the tank facing the other way, you wont get air to the tank. The trucks we see at work are...

Yes, 2 inch for the upper and oil cooler hoses and 1 3/4 for the water manifold to intake manifold hoses

In the Multifuel assy TM, it lists the injector hold down...5/16 bolts... as being torqued to 150-175 POUND FEET! I am gonna assume that this is incorrect. Should they be at 150-175 INCH POUNDS, or 15-17 FOOT POUNDS, or maybe something different?

Check it with a known good mechanical gauge or, as a last resort, a VOM and pressure transducer.

I run mine on a mix of diesel and gas on a regular basis. Too much gas, it gets a "hunt" at a hot idle and is a little slower to start on the first start of the day. I just add 1-5 gallons of diesel. Never ran ATF or WMO, only becaure of the possible metal content and filtering capability of the...

Only other thing, a shorted battery, but the battery usually explodes. Most likely, a loose/dirty connection at the battery. Most loose or dirty or poor connections will cause an arc or spark at the failed connection, battery cable end, frame/cab connection, starter. etc.

Found the PM article,

Vinyl ones have the loops, I think? There is a PS mag art. or MWO for adding two more bows to prevent the sag thing. I haven't seen the PS art. but I have seen the result.It heps the top nice and tight, but, you move 1 bow and add 2 and there is no added reenforcing strip under the moved/added...

I got mine from Addirondak Dodge about a year ago. Seems to be holding up nicely, made of smelly, heavy canvas with the ropes too.

B-4 I take my engine apart, Does anyone have a picture of the Injector return line nuts and ferruls and the same for the lines for the FDC on the pump so I can see what they look like so when I break them upon disassembly, I have a clue as to what replacement parts to look for?

Jon, where'd you get that?? There is a guy on e-bay who has complete overhaul gasket sets for $200 buy it now, he raised the price, I got mine for $150. They have everything, new style h. gaskets, front and rear seals, pan gasket, everything with NSN labels on them. Antelope wants $325 and...