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Read Stonepicker1 ancient posts about this subject. There is a 12/24 converter that is (was) mounted somewhere. It charges the second battery when a voltage signal tells it the ignition is on. Also need a 24 volt starter.
My observations having bought a lot:
If you don’t inspect, it is a crapshoot. If they Shrink wrap expect those tires to be crap. Even high tread tires can have huge punctures. All the Michelins are too old now. Best to buy from a reseller that offers exchange and or inspection/warranty.
Welcome. You have a Carter YF carburetor which was used on the CJ-5. The correct carb is a Carter YS. Either will work, you just need to decide what level of correctness you wish to achieve. These carbs are available from all the usual sources such as Army Jeep Parts.
Good luck with the...
Put duct tape squares over the intakes. Get a end wire wheel on your drill and remove rust in combination with your shop vac. Follow up with cold galvanizing spray paint covered with flat black spray enamel.
Oh OK thanks, just wondering if you had some super secret prototype unit. That valve is the fuel filter sump drain and that sound is the "Cadillac" valve that controls the fan clutch.
Get a 1-3/4 wrench and remove the latch cylinder cap. Pull out the plunger and replace the National #216 O-ring inside.
There is a thread on how to do this.
thread:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/critical-fmtv-pm-not-covered-in-tms.130222/
Yes the fan has to come off to replace the belt. Not fun, I did a thread on it about 4 years ago. Involves lining up the access holes in the fan clutch with the allen screws and working blind to remove them.
Well it can be assumed that if you are getting plenty of pressure to the injection pump, getting voltage to the solenoid and it is moving inside, your injection pump needs to go out for rebuild.
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