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Have you confirmed you have 24V at the dimmer switch with the wires plugged in? and that it is switching the output connections again with the wires plugged in?

Was the possibility you have a Chicom knockoff new switch discussed on your other thread?

Maybe this will help https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-hmmwv-v-belt-part-numbers.147066/

It would probably be better to buy a full set of alternator belts from one of the trusted dealers, it is next to impossible to get a matched set any other way. Unless you live in a large city where you can go from one auto parts dealer to another of the same name trying to get three belts with...

15A is the main power feed to the light switch, it gets its power from pin F of the body side connector of the PCB/EESS box. It should be hot all the time.

You have to be very careful adding any load to the dash lamps, if the dash lamps are switched to dim, first you will not have 24V to whatever you connected and second you can burn up the dim resistor in the light switch which can cause other damage inside the light switch.

I believe all 6.5L engines have the crank sending unit although not being used on the 3 speed, if not you can add one. After thinking about it I am running the aftermarket tach on the Detroit on 24V, there is no voltage on the tach sense line so I don't see where it would make any difference. If...

I used the signal from the crank sending unit 4p/rev. I was never able to get an aftermarket tach to work on the AC tap. (edit), the signal from the crank sensor is 5V IIRC, if you have a NA you can also use the RPM sending unit on the back of the engine 1p/rev but you will need to provide a...

It was tested in a 6.5L turbo truck, unless modified no 6.2L HMMWV had the 4L80E The reason the 6.2L civy TCM will work is because those trucks had a mechanical IP like all HMMWVs have, at some point when the civy trucks all went to electronically controlled IPs the TCM would change because that...

I posted a link to the TMs in post #13 above, the MWO TMs are there, as I said the first two I am pretty sure were never applied to the A2 as those mods were incorporated in the build process long before the A2 or even the A1 came along so it looks like the data plates actually mean nothing as...

That is why everything installed in a HMMWV is water proof, they are always going to leak, was never meant not to.

The backspacing is the issue, wheel for say a 3/4 ton chevy do not work well as the tire sticks out too much...

Sounds like it would be much easier to by a Hummer H1 then "militarize" it if one wanted all of those creature comforts, it would probably cost less in the long run. I do not think you will be able to have a correct looking "flat" paint job using the clear coat method, If you want a shiny paint...

I can read/write the OEM EPROMs but Eastern Surplus has them pretty cheap, I cannot write to those modules as they are actually PROM not EPROM but they work the same. Yours is probably OK but if not it's not a big deal.. https://www.easternsurplus.net/Products/SearchResults

It looks like it would work, the only civy TCM I have had tested was a 16147609 and it worked fine. None of the rebuilt units come with an EPROM and all I have seen have a core charge.

Looking at the photos it looks like a straight up M1097A2, 4 speed, driver heater duct etc. I have no idea how those data plates got onto that truck, the first two MWOs were only done to basic trucks as all others had those mods from the factory. I would not be too concerned at this point as...

The first link in the TM sticky lists many of the MWOs. https://www.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv

I am curious, did you have to fill out an EUC application? some of the trucks on GP are sold by individuals not the government. Actually at this point it looks like GP sold a 1989 M1097A2. Does it have a 4 speed? (EDIT would have park)

I like the Rustoleum flat BBQ paint, (7778830) can even apply to radio ant and such as it has for many years been without any metals (I think all paint now contain no metals) I buy it by the case from Home Depot when on sale. EDIT, not the Ultra, sometimes it just does not get flat enough.

Glad you got it going :giggle: , I have read before someone mentioning the size difference, can't remember where. Curious what you used to remove the excess material? What was the part number of the regulator you used?