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Some have had success getting it welded in place. you did replace the support bracket right? I would also suggest you get driveshafts balanced…

What Geopen said... i have lost count of how many I have run across with 5 solid/failed controllers...

Yep, been doing this for years now. The issue with a regulator can be flow. If you limit pressure differential you are going to significantly lengthen fill times. And as I mentioned a pressure switch needs a little delay to prevent triggering during normal fill cycles...

No the complexity isn’t really the issue, it is just that it is some work and another project for a feature I might only use a few times a year…

No real difference having it go to 85 vis 75. I don’t see a reason to sneak up on it, so why not have it go all the way? That bit is easy, using the wet tank switch to control the fill cycles, and measure the pressure switch between fill cycles during stable tire pressure.. The safety cutoffs...

The manual and schematics are an acquired skill, and can take some time to learn your way around. Because this is such a common issue, I drew up a simplified one page schematic of the A0 starter system. this may help you work your way thru the issue. Good Luck.

They should be, they are standard automotive relays…

A single click when you push the button or multiple/pulsing clicks? If multiple/pulsing, what is the voltage at the power panel WHILE you are pushing the button. Pulsing relays is classic low voltage caused most likley by bad connections. Remember voltage isnt good untill it is good under...

Yes except you need to put a little bit of delay into the resonse. When you command a fill with full tanks, the PCU pressure momentarilly exceeds what I would call a max allowable tire pressure alarm point(spikes over 100PSI). The periods where the PCU exceeds where I would like my alarm set...

I think the pressure increase with overspeed is mentioned in the A0 op manual. Yea fixed switches on a manual control is not a good idea. These vehicles ride on some very large air filled bombs. I have always reccomended and demonstrated momentary switches for controlling supply. You would...

Well the pics were initially posted by Spanky Bear I just screenshot them for future reference:) On the A1, With the exception of K1 and K2, which are the large 24V bolt-in ignition relays under the power panel, the A1 with the circuit board power panel actually uses 12v coil relays for all...

Brush and commutator could be dirty/full of crap and shorting/not flowing full current to the proper windings in sequence. When that happens you loose torque. Same issue can occur with the solenoid contacts, or the conductor pathways to the starter Are limiting current. You checked voltage...

Just 3 get a bigger hammer:)

Ooh ooh ooh, remember when I said i had not found a air compressor switch with the right contact polarity? While looking for something else, I stumbled across this AC&R low pressure cutout switch. Unless it is a typo, It opens at 90PSI and closes at 120 which would be the correct orientation...

Those standard auto size relays are 20-30A typically.

You only need 2 types. 5 pins can be used everywhere, so you only need to stock 5 pin relays in 12 and 24v coils...

That sw wont work... the sw used closes at 117 and doesnt open again until 89. The controller uses this 30 psi dead-band/span info to control its filling cycles, so any old pressure sw wont work... You can get close with a 90-120 psi compressor control sw($20-30), which is a common enough part...

The shock IS the limit stop as it is in many suspension systems…

Wow! So used to NOT seeing it I scanned right past it, feels like its going to be another monday:)

Short or a very loose/intermittent connection that is cooking off trying to feed its normal current. Read the codes on the trans, you probably have a low voltage fault stored. Then you need to look back along that trans power pathway… most of the connections are plug in or spade terminals, but...