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I just picked up a pair of rectangular meters on Amazon for $9 each to use for a different project. They are not the digital ones but for the price it might be worth trying out and see how long they can withstand the vibration. Only problem is you would need to fabricate an adapter plate to...

If you search around here you'll likely find lots of talk about cleaning and repairing tanks. My personal experience was to clean the tanks out good by sloshing a bunch of nuts bolts and screws around in the tanks 1/3 full of phosphoric acid (metal treat) or muriatic acid. then let it sit full...

Yup, same charger I got from Northern Tool. Reg. $49 got 6 on sale for $29 Ea. they work fantastic! You really don't need to disconnect the dogbone, it will still act like 2 12V batteries even with the dogbone in place. However disconnecting it will prevent any discharging due to leaky Caps in...

If you're just trying to maintain your batteries it's best to get a low amp maintainer ( 1.5 - 2 amp) with an automatic desulfation mode. I got some (12V units) from Northern tool on sale for $29 each. They say you can maintain up to 4 (12v) batteries off each one, but I only connect 2 at a time...

I also use etching primer... I sandblast and stick them through cardboard, 1 light coat of etching primer ( green, gray or black ) depending on the finial color they will be painted. let dry overnight then topcoat, dry 2 days min. and install. I usually use a 6 point socket instead of 12 but...

If you are also going to change the return line going back to the fuel tank, that one is smaller than the rest. It's a -4AN or 1/4" SAE/JIC, whatever you want to call it. ;)

Looks a bit like my PVC, propane powered potato cannon...

I just did a quick look on the internet and they make "lower radiator hose block heaters" in a variety of different hose sizes. Just splice it into your lower hose and the heat will rise up into the motor. They look to be about 600W for $50 or so depending on the size hose you have.

I can't speak to the screw in block heater, but if by change it doesn't work you can get block heaters that you can splice into a coolant line. I have a Lull 644 and it had a 110V heater installed a 3/4" heater hose that connects the water pump to the thermostat housing. Its a small unit about...

If the starter that works correctly is also a style 1 you might want to consider bringing that one with you for the guy to compare with the broken one. Maybe something is assembled incorrectly and he is just overlooking it? Lets just hope you don't get back 2 starters that won't release! :shock:

By "Bench Test" I assume you mean they apply power and the motor spins and stops as it should but not under any load at all. I bet there is a mechanical problem in the area of the drive assembly which is physically holding the drive gear engaged with the flywheel which is in turn physically...

The easiest thing to do is probably to check the injector line for air and fuel flow again. Start it up again and rebleed both cylinders. If its only running on one it will probably stall when you try bleeding the working cylinder. If bleeding shows good fuel flow and no sign of air you'll have...

For some reason an 1800 RPM diesel doesn't sound as offensive to me as 3600 RPM's of gasoline screaming for mercy! That video of Sewerzewk's is the same one I was referring to in my original post. Wish it had a little more detail, but I'll figure it all out. A double acting setup would be nice...

Na, I'd never do that... I guess I should clarify a little. I'm not doing it because the current setup has a problem ( other than being a little slow for my liking ) I just thought it would be a cool project. What I found out is that my current pump is a 2 stage 11GPM/3GPM rated for 3600 rpm...

Na, no gear reducer, it was a ground blower that I didn't need. Just took off the blower assy. and mounted the pump and a hydraulic tank/filter onto the chassis of the ground blower then ran hoses with quick connects to the beam/piston/valve setup, that way I can detach the pumping unit and...

So, in an attempt to not hijack another thread that mentioned building a log splitter using the motor from a MEP-003A.... I have a home made log splitter that I've been thinking about repowering with the 2 cyl. motor off an MEP-002A and I'm interested in seeing if any members here have any...

Good luck with the Lasik, I did it about 12 years ago, best decision I ever made! I'm very happy with the results.

There is a problem with the starter. If you remove the "S" wire it kills power to the solenoid, but if it continues to crank there has to be something wrong with the starter itself. Sounds like the bendix is hanging up somehow and keeping the solenoid stuck in ( which will cause power to...

Badfish, I think you'll be fine with a -002A for your needs. I tested mine and it was able to run all the lights both inside and outside my house as well as in the shop, a 3/4hp well pump and an electric oven, all at the same time without sending the meter much over 100% load. Your biggest...

I was able to get a used CT/CVT assembly from a member here. It was a real bear to change because removing the ends of the large power lines looped through the transformers from the AC select switch is a real challenge! I'd be willing to bet the problem lies elsewhere, not in the CT/CVT itself...