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Check the timing too. That silly 230 will run 40°-60° off time. It will seem to run pretty good that far off to. Just not very fast. Also, pulling the spark plugs would be a good idea. They are kind of difficult to get to and people tend to just not check or change them. It is also a...
I third what Warthog and doghead wrote. I will also add this.
You can not "flood out" a diesel by pushing the pedal with the engine not running. It is a mechanical fuel injection set up. Pumping the pedal until your leg is cramping is no different than never touching it as far as the...
BFG 33 x 12.50 AT tires went on yesterday. No more shakes above 62 mph, looks better, is way more stable at speed and hopefully, the mileage will stay about the same running a few mph faster.
Replaced all the filters and fluids a week or so ago. The Transmission drops down to 1st when I am...
Tubes work great with radial tires. Just make sure you get radial tubes. Yes, there is a difference between tubes meant for radial tires and tubes meant for bias ply tires.
The fan and radiator are matched up great on this truck. Even in 100° plus temps and the gauge over 200° while going down the road. 5 minutes at idle and the temp is down to 180° or so and the radiator while not cool to the touch is not trying to burn your arm off.
Was it by chance Desert Tan with roadster doors? That was built by a guy in TN named Chad. It has been sold several times and the current owner hasn't been to the Zone yet.
Those stick on heat strips won't last on a rear M1009 window because of the pretty tight felts around the glass in the tail gate.
Use your outside mirrors is the best advice I can give you besides fixing your main heater.
Like most things in life, there are different ways to do things. I find it easier to have the bracket on the starter but loose. Start the two big bolts at the front and then bolt the bracket to the block. Once the big bolts are tight, I will tighten up the bracket.
Try anyway you can to get...
As posted above, a non air shift t case can and does work great when properly adjusted. Read the -10 and -20 about how to drive it, how to test it and how to adjust it.
No toll roads. Great idea about the axle Kenny. Pulling the front hubs would help wear and fuel cost as well. Just a few minutes with a 3/4" wrench to pull them off. This will let you look at the grease on the bearings up there too. If it is nice and clean and has grease, great. If not...
There are several threads about what to do. Basically, unplug the alternator, check the voltage at the plug with the key off and on. If they all have 12 volts with the key on and the plug off, then the truck side is probably good and you are back to testing the alternator.
Having helped drive a M35 from the other side of Atlanta to Houston. I will off the advice that I-10/I-12 between Mobile and Houston will drive you nuts. THUMP...THUMP...THUMP...THUMP...etc for 400 miles. We also ran into trouble trying to get diesel at any place not a truck stop.
Houston...
Since you have evidence of a bad alternator, swapped in a good one and the problem is the same. Maybe you have a short on the truck side of the system and it is causing your alternators to go bad. Check your voltage at the plug with the engine off and on.
4 55 gallon drums, 4 4" fence post, 4 jack stands and 1 hi lift jack. Stick the fence post under the edge of the bed but above the bed frame. Use the hi-lift to pick up the post, use the jack stand on top of the drum to hold it however high you want and move on to the other 3 corners. Drive...
Yes, you seem to have narrowed it down to alt 1. Pull the alternator apart and do the checks in the -34 manual of each component inside the alternator.
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