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two 12v better IMHO, if your not throwing a converter in there. If wanting to get home as is, two 12v smart chargers, may be your best bet sense one batt gets more 12v draw than the other, having the two smart ones to get you home then seems would with out needing converter. @Ronmar ...

there is no commercial alt. that will fit the alt bracket on these trucks. You have to re-configure yours or have one fabbed for you. Not something you can do on the road. Once home you can machine out bracket you have to install a commercial and convertor on it. BTW- if your on the road...

@InvictusDecretum Post 15. from Thurs... all the your pics are dead. If you uploaded them to here... hmmm??? not sure what is up.. If you linked to them.... works way better to just upload them to here then post them somewhere else then link em.

what bead product did you use?

nahhhh. tweeker will give up before they can get thru these tanks. Now a regular car or truck with thin sheet metal fuel tanks...... that's different. no drill need. Strong nail and hammer is all you need.

Yup... prevented my LMTV from burning to the ground from smell of wires burning.. started chasing all around it (after removing power from batts)... but magic smoke was still being released... Tilted cab lickedy split and found the smell was coating on windings in my Neihoff.... AND it was on...

Well have heard of "seat of the pants" (feel) driving... the "nose knows" method ... that one is new to me LOL :driver: (not really.... am exactly the same myself too)

Looks like it is TM 9-2320-365-20-3 section 11-9 page 11-45

Agree- though suspect he was just reporting experience with how it aided driving with his Eco Hub swap- not really expecting it to get much responses... but it did. Is what it is. MODERATOR/ADMIN. can you do your magic and split out various post on this braking topic, and Oil Pump Topic to...

Just be aware when you replace that braided hose.... metal braided hoses love to saw right thru things.. keep it well away from stuff.

Have you found any info on this in your TM's yet?

A0, A1, A1R truck?? (what year is it) Maybe they are all the same when it comes to Treadle Valve .... best not to assume and include more truck details?

side note.... one of the balancer companies like centramatic also makes a driveshaft balancer that works on similar principle!!! They make tire balancer's like centramatic too. https://www.balancemasters.com/driveshafts

do you have the pump tilted? Pretty sure it is suppose to have some slope. it is part of how a metering pump works on these. This video covers the wear/tear of pump if not angled... but only mentions in fast passing there is possible air lock happening not allowing fuel thru after the air...

Since it appears you left a gap about size, maybe little less f M1079 between front of Habitat and rear of cab... would think one could install a rearward skirt width of cab, with fixed top and drop down bottom. extending from cab as far back toward the habitat as can go yet not interfere with...

Welcome to the Green side :tank:

one thing people forget is that there appears to be nothing wrong with some (or a lot) of solar panel hanging off the back.of a habitat. Could over lap in front too if one is not worried about air underneath trying to rip that one off. (or cab tilt, spare tire lift whacking it) Heck if one is...

lol..... cot / bed. For a second... thought you were throwing out a joke... then realized you meant troop bed not cot bed

check all your Ground and Pos. attachments are clean. Maybe your getting a juice drop? Also once you got that going. Drop to two battery. The alternator will function way way way better and batts will last longer... esp. if you install an aftermarket balancer in the mix

Old thread... but its good to revist. Cab cot/bed- for those with a camp habitat on back? - Guest Bed? - Your sig-other stuck you in the dog house (habitat on FMTV or not) - teen who does not want to sleep in same space as family any more?