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I forgot yours was an A1R(too many different discussions:)). Have run across a few with A1 and a 260A. yep lots of ? What I have gleaned from other troubleshooting sessions is that the LBCD sends 28V to that F- terminal. If you disconnect that wire you can see it on the wire coming from the...

Well if this was an A1, I am pretty sure it didn’t come standard with the 260. That may have been the original LBCD though…. So if it had a 100A alt, and had AGMs installed, I could see it disconnecting more frequently due to overload and working those caps harder… Now if a 260A needs to...

The running load of the truck with everything on is perhaps 30A@14V or about 420W, And maybe 20A@28V for another 560W or 980W total. With dead batteries and everything turned on, the alt will probably be delivering it’s 60A max load@14v and the remaining 40A@28V. Thats 1960W. When the LBCD...

Most alternators don’t protect themselves from overload, try arc welding or charging lithium batteries directly with one:) they do tend to self derate with temp increase, and I believe these alts do so as well, but that is partly to accommodate differences in charging hot lead acid batteries...

Yea the heat syncs are for the diodes, All the electrical power used by the truck, other than to crank the starter motor passes thru those diodes… The circuitry monitors the duty cycle that the regulator pulses the alternator field via that F- or AC terminal on the regulator. When it sees a...

Yes and the power solenoid is right at the back end of the head…

I think on the early A1 it is not automated. I don’t think they did that until they started integrating both the intake heater and the ether. looking at the A1 drawing, the intake heater is controlled by the ECU, but the ether is still controlled manually. Does your truck have both intake...

Here is mine at 27F a few years ago:)

Just so we are not confusing anything there is a manual battery disconnect back at the batteries. There is a remote battery disconnect sw under the drivers dash, just to the left of the steering column. The main ignition switch is on the dash above the start button. There is a second remote...

What truck do you have? On an A0 ign power relay is K2 in the power panel.

Oh wow, no I was thinking 30 min, 45 min, maybe an hour… I wouldn't leave it on all night, The block heater will not help with warmup, only startup. on the 3116 They diverted the bypass coolant from its normal Path back thru the engine where it can warm steadily to op temp, and sent it all...

Yea, What Awesomeness said. out in the cold, I figure the losses will equal the input after 30-45 minutes… would be pleasantly surprised to find it works with less, just havn’t had a chance to try mine yet…

On the 3116 The press and release the throttle, then hold at 1/3 is for all starts, not just cold ones, but I don’t think I have ever started mine this way. Thats how I start my tractor though… From 32F down to -25F, you press the starter button then press the ether button for 3 seconds on, 2...

I think on the C7, how they are used/applied is ultimately decided by the ECU…

No the balance function is provided by the regulator on the alternator... There is only really one reason to have caps like that…

Good guesses, a battery disconnect under high load would probably cause a pretty good spike… big caps to catch that “noise”…

They may have built a noise suppression filter into the device to help cut down on the trucks(alternator) electromagnetic signature. They put filters on the wiper, washer and heater motors for this reason… The LBCD also contains the alternator load monitor circuitry, so would expect you to find...

Yep, this isn’t for safety, it is for unloading the batteries as it will disable the 12 and 24v circuits. For safety you need to also lift the 12V or 24V leads…

Yea if you keep a maintainer on it you will be in a much better situation And will keep the alt from having to run at an overload for long durations Trying to top off the batteries. The vampire is only about 20MA on my truck. I have a 15w panel and a buck converter set to deliver a 13.2v float...

I apologize, I messed that up. To clear the codes, press both arrows to enter diagnostic mode. Then press and hold the MODE button. After 3 seconds the controller will beep once indicating the active faults have been cleared. If you continue to hold the button at about 10 seconds the...