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The tab is no doubt still stuck in the oil pump shaft. You can pull the oil pump out easy, just make sure the tooth engagement is the same when you put it back in. Mark the tooth to oil pump housing with a paint pen and make sure that is lined back up the same when you stab the oil pump, or...

Have NEVER seen that in my 40 years working with these waterproof distributors!!

Going by memory, ambulance had 100 amp generator, old style with piggyback regulator. Those are a bit hard to find. You can put a 60 amp in or go upgrade with the 200 amp units available now.

Use a plug wire with wire core. Need to have good diagnostics before opening the engine.

Haha same question a lot of Ford Triton engine owners ask. The chain has a tensioner which prevents jumping, it likely needs replacing, the front timing cover has to come off.

The timing chain does not drive the distributor. If the cam timing jumped, engine would have low power. I would put a timing light on it and see what you got.

Sounds like the cable between the negative post and the shunt is faulty. They can get corrosion between the wire strands and the cable lug resulting in your situation.

Flat tows with equal weight trucks at freeway speeds are dangerous. Even more so if brakes don’t work on towed vehicle. Also, maybe paying for some more storage might be the least risky option of all.

4bt engines used in “bread trucks” have the GM automatic bell housing/flywheel parts you need. Will need a power modified 700R4 or 4L80E with aftermarket shift brain to get RPMs down where the diesel can handle it.

Heads on a 6.5 pickup version do not accept the van type induction/turbocharger.

Come on, the seal is likely 50 years old with a groove cut in the yoke. Get under there and replace it. No magic in a bottle will fix that.

You are in Ferris which seems to be the center of the trucking industry for the DFW area. I would call around to local diesel shops until you find someone with the E-T software that is willing to help you.

Need Cat ET. Know anybody with one?

You just move to the same sharp angle you had when they popped out and then pop them in again, then straighten out the assy to keep them captured.

I would open the top of the injector pump like you are trying to do and make sure everything is free. Is yours a 1995 or 2002?

Can you hear the ip solenoid click when power is applied? If your truck is a '95 it may be due for an injection pump overhaul, runs about $500.

Agree with fuzzy. Needs WTECII controller for a ‘97. Michelin tires are too old as well for a long march. Also voltage regulator been cannibalized.

I JUST finished this mod to my 1081 BUT for some reason the Pur-est dryer I got has the bottom fittings oriented 180 degrees from the one you have. I had to buy a 36” compressor discharge hose to go from the frame all the way to where the control line is on your install. Pricy at $80.

Auction link? Will be able to tell you from pics.

Welcome. Your 4L80E is in limp mode if it won't shift out of second. If the TCM stays hot, that is what is draining your batteries. Sounds like now the TCM has died. Maybe this manual can help you.