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By "non-electronic" I meant there are no solid state devices in the starter circuit such as transistors mentioned by OP. I agree the small GM solenoid should be fine, but I think you will agree that LOTS of folks have it stick on them. I still use the OEM part, but it dangles below the dash...

No, not ANY Sherwin Williams outlet, only Chemical Coatings stores for CARC. It's pricy, over $100/gal. I would paint match your structure using the water based house paint and worry about the unequal fading after X years then.

GM used a wimpy solenoid which you were about to replace. It's all just non-electronic wiring in the starter circuit.

The problem with matching the original Tan 686 paint on your 10 year old trailer is that it has faded, and any new paint will not be. So if you want to paint your canopy CARC, you will end up having to paint the trailer as well. An option is to have Sherwin Williams or Home Depot etc color...

Welcome. Quite a few knowledgeable GMC owners here, I will chime in. If replacing the generator did not fix the charging system, then the only thing else if could be is the regulator. On the compressed air, if the belt is there and the compressor is spinning, maybe the unloader is stuck in...

I went through this. Using a tactical vehicle for the test is a recipe for failure. She will need to instruct you, hard to do in a noisy truck. She will be out of her zone, not good. Use the CDL rental trucks, they are cheap.

Looks like the canopy structure is gone over the rear bed.

I vaguely remember those being advertised in Rock and Dirt back in the 70's-80's. So maybe some are out there.

Simple answer is a HMMWV pull out GEP 6.5/4L80E with GM side mount turbo from a 90's pickup. Keep the HMMWV mechanical IP, just go to 12 volt solenoids.

The first 800 series trucks rolled off the assembly line in 1969. I REALLY don't think Kaiser Jeep was building M39 series trucks concurrently or after the 800 series trucks. Lots of people are misguided by overhaul dates, just as you were.

See if a sledgehammer fits there for pounding in ground rods.

As long as you can service it extensively within a week or so, it will be fine. Drain all gearcases, flush with clean water, then diesel. Remove cylinder head, flush, allow to dry, fill cylinders with oil and turn engine over.

Gov tried that on the Allison M916s, was a pitiful outcome with the butterfly hood which is not designed to move up and down.

Just need a Ham radio operator buddy that has a 10 meter FM rig to talk to it. It transmits/receives 27-39 Mhz FM.

I think about 1 in 30 trucks have the SRW. Which is why NO SRW trucks should ever be "parted out". They are too desirable.

I can help with second question. Do you have closed or open cab? Typically it is springs, burlap, horsehair, canvas.

Highly likely something came unglued in the crankcase causing the seizure.

Rear tandem is 44,000.

What model is the burned one? You have the SUPER HARD to fabricate sub floor boxes there. Have fun sandblasting those. Did you score the yellow 275 in the background as well?

I have found that E85 will dissolve that varnish. Fill the tank 1/3 full and let it ride around with you for a few days to let it slosh around and dissolve the gunk.