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As long as everything is wired to spec(TL35 to ENG on regulator)yes, jumping the K11 contacts should energize the alt. Measuring the 12 and 24v Test points at the PDP should show you if the polarity box is wired correctly...

Some of them are smarter. The N1505-1 and its associated regulator used in the Hmvees has soft start and RPM sense. It also has temperature compensation and over voltage cutout. I believe the N1509 and N1511(used in the A1’s I think) also have these features. it would be great if it has it...

I would NOT do this. There is a reason it is done the way it is off the oil pressure circuit. These alternators are pretty expensive to replace, so I trust that someone had a good enough reason to do it, like trying to protect the alternator/installing it to manufacturers specs... If the ENG...

Yep, they make small diesel/kerosene versions of those heaters as well but they require some power to run the blower. I have used a propane weed burner. The good thing about those is they are very throttlable and easy to position without crawling under the truck...

It may be internally thermally controlled, but the filter heater gets power when the governor run solenoid does(main sw on).

Now I think if you search speedometer in this section, you will probably come across posts with photos/descriptions of the dip switch settings on the back. i believe they are also described in the Tech Manuals. Have you downloaded those yet, they are available up at the top of the main forum...

I separated out the A0 electrical schematics into a small easily manipulated .PDF file, I should probably see about uploading it here...

Near the back of the 20-1 thru 20-5 manuals you will find the electrical schematics. here is a screenshot of the aux starter relay. Basically power comes from the starter, thru the aux relay contacts and back to the starter solenoid to activate it...

What snowtrack said. Sounds like a bad wire/connection from aux relay to starter solenoid. Repeat that test with the wire up to your meter connected to where that wire from the aux starter relay connects at the starter solenoid. Don't forget when checking components, that a high resistance...

Vibration isn't necessarily a problem as long as all the parts move together. I believe it is the independent movement that is killing this hardline. This horseshoe shaped line creates an overhung mass like a diving board. If that mass at the end of the diving board can move independent of the...

I don't think the flex line will appreciably change oil pressure or flow as long as the bend radius is not too tight... Once the O-rings are under compression, I don't see them offering much dampening surrounded by the rigid fitting. Corrosion on the pipe could be a weakening issue, the heat...

Availability, cost, finicky nature and low highway pressure were why I went manual...

Well if the starter works, its solenoid is OK. If you can crank it with a button directly to the starter solenoid, but the aux solenoid/relay on the frame rail wont crank the starter, then the problem IS the aux solenoid on the frame or the connection between the two...

:)

Well at least you know everything else works:)

Anything that changes the mass and makes it less resonant at whatever input is causing it to work and break would probably work. Clamping it along its length effectively adds the mass of the engine to it, and it also divides it into two components at a different, hopefully less resonant length...

The length of the line could also be a factor. There are other hard lines on this motor, and they don't seem to break. The size(and shape) of this line may make it susceptible to a particular frequency. A clamp to the head mid-span would help to dampen these. There are however a lot of these...

The CTIS pressure sw should close at 115 to tell the controller you have air, and open at around 89 to tell CTIS that the wet tank/air supply is exhausted. Is yours switch cycling with full/empty wet tank(yours may be shorted:)). Hard to say what issues 145 is causing, I am not aware of an...

Exactly what Swamp Donkey said:) The CTIS pressure switch is looking for around 115-117 PSI to close so probably wont function with 110...

I am sorry you misunderstood me, The only place air would leak out are the cap and the fittings on the top back end of the exp tank and a foot or so of hose, as those are the only thing above the coolant level. And if the coolant level didn't drop under pressure, you are not loosing any...