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Well you would need a viscometer to accurately check for lube oil dilution, but sometimes your nose can give you a good clue about diesel in the oil. Since it was your first drive, it could be that you finally got it warm enough to drive out moisture in the oil, or it has a high diesel content...

Yea, lot of smoke from the CC vent is not a good sign... How much oil was still in the engine? What does that oil look like(is it contaminated/milky)? I would answer those questions before I added any oil for a test run.

There is an A1 electrical schematic in the TM section...

Yea, I think the tran controller needs 24V

when I tried to look at your attachment, I got an "invalid attachment specified" fault...

Also check power steering... Are there any drips anywhere to determine color? Black oil = engine, Brown oil typically = transmission, steering or differential oil. Gear oil usually smells different. it appears to be out both sides, and dripping from the middle. Could be an axle seal, but both...

That is PSI on a gauge connected to the rear service gladhand. Had my grandson driving and after releasing the brakes and rolling, he used just enough pedal to bring it to a stop, I would read the pressure behind the truck as it came to a stop... Having him depress the pedal hard yielded just...

Ok, well cannot really watch it while driving, but it takes about 50 psi using just enough pedal to bring it from a roll to a stop at idle in 2nd. It took around 75 psi to do the same thing in first...

You got me curious and I remembered the vented gladhand covers from the front are 1/8” NPT. Removed a vent and added a gauge then hooked it to the service gladhand at the back. I got 0-100 PSI that varied in a linear fashion with pedal position... 10 psi static sounds weird and 35 PSI sounds...

The switches are an A1 thing...

IMO your best bet to find a deal is to line up a skillset(buddy who will work for beer and pizza), such as electrical, and look for one with defects in that area(electrical seems to scare many away, but they really have a pretty straightforward electrical system)... Everyone bids on the ones...

Ok, now I am tracking. Sorry, I dont have a gladhand tire hose, so unfortunatly I cannot help you...

K1 or K2(starter and control relays respectively) you could also disconnect the solenoid on the back of the governor... along the lines of disconnecting the VIM, you can pull the WTEC Circuit breaker which interrupts the start enable signal from the transmission... Is your battery box locked...

Excellent! :)

The pedal is a variable regulator so 0-120(or whatever is in the service tanks). You would have to put a gauge on a service line to answer your question.

Actually in my experimenting I saw this. Check the control solonoid on the PCU. Supply without Control and the pressure jumps up to around 40 then drops into the teens. This caused the fronts to deflate and the rear quick release to only partially open and squeal... The front axle loading on...

I bid on one in WA in August... The one I won didnt have one though...

I think a welded rear diff would put a tremendous load on the spider gears at the end of the axles...

Thanks. I will take some pics inside when I make a little more ergonomic case. This was an inexpensive proof of concept and the gauge is a little hard to read setting in the drivers seat. Not much inside, 3 switches, 6 wires a cannon plug and gauge. Been thinking about it a bit and I might...

Oops!